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Spain nurtures its truffle trade - for the French

HIDDEN TREASURE: The truffles grow a few inches below the ground, but within the smelling range of hunting dogs that are trained to find them by farmers, such as sniffer dogs that are trained by the police.

Sarrion, Spain

ON Saturday nights, prospective buyers gather on the outskirts of this small village, in the darkness of a parking lot next to a semi-abandoned railway station. Using flashlights, they inspect the offerings local farmers have piled in the trunks of their vehicles, then...