Tool watches get trendy at Tudor

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR FRIGID temperatures or deep sea exploration, Tudor’s technical or “tool” watches were tough timepieces for the likes of adventurers. But in recent years, they have been snapped up by a less rugged, trendy set, thanks to a stylish makeover by the brand. For those planning to hike Mount Everest or chill out in the latest nightspot, Tudor’s 3 new tool watches will fit the bill.

Tudor Ranger

To commemorate the 70th anniversary of the British North Greenland Expedition, this updated offering in the Ranger line is modelled on the watch worn by the expedition team in the 2-year study of ice sheets in Greenland in 1952. The watch was the Oyster Prince, Tudor’s first automatic and waterproof watch. It had not only survived the frigid cold, but was still working well with “remarkable accuracy” after the expedition. The Oyster Prince later gave birth to the Tudor Range of expedition timepieces.

The new Tudor Range has a 39 mm wide stainless steel case and bracelet which are both satin-brushed in the purest spirit of a tool watch, creating an overall matt finish. The 4 Arabic numerals on the dial pay respect to the aesthetic standards set in the course of its history. Powering the waterproof watch is a high performance Tudor in-house movement certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) for accuracy and reliability; the movement boasts 70 hours of power reserve. This Tudor Ranger is the cheapest Tudor tool model with an in-house movement. Price: S$4,210 (steel bracelet), S$3,780 (leather or fabric strap).

Black Bay Pro

A brand new tool model, this compact, robust and sporty watch – which can tell time in 2 time zones – displays all the hallmarks of a Tudor tool watch, but with many design details of its own. The winding crown, for one, has been completely redesigned for maximum grip. Also new are the dial’s applied markers, which are made from monoblock luminous ceramic. Then there’s the new bracelet clasp with a Tudor “T-fit” quick adjustment system, which allows instant adjustment of up to 8 mm on the clasp.

The new 39 mm stainless steel GMT watch harks back to the timepieces of pioneer explorers. It’s recognisable by its 24-hour graduated satin-brushed fixed bezel and orange 24-hour “snowflake hand”. The watch runs on a COSC-certified automatic movement that was developed in-house just for it. Price: S$5,520 (steel bracelet), S$5,090 (strap).

Pelagos FXD

The French Navy’s combat swimmers would feel very much at home with this divers’ watch. It was developed on the specifications that Tudor had drawn up together with the maritime arm of the French Armed Forces. With the Pelagos FXD, where FXD refers to the extra robust fixed star bars of the case, Tudor has revived its historic collaboration with the French Navy.

The watch was inspired by the reference 9401, with its iconic blue dial and bezel. Ref 9401 is the most famous Tudor divers’ watch used by the French Navy. It was delivered in 2 configurations: “Snowflake” hands and hour markers and, later, with triangular hour markers.

The specifications set for the new timepiece are demanding and include many functional features that were absent in Tudor watches, such as the fixed strap bars which are machined into the 42 mm titanium case to make it more robust and reliable. Shaped as an extension of the lugs, the bars are key to the Pelagos FXD’s characteristic profile. The watch also has a unique 120-notch rotating bezel. Its bi-directional bezel with retrograde graduation from 60 to 0 doesn’t correspond to the standard requirements of divers’ watches, but meets the specific needs of “underwater navigation”, one of the specialties of combat swimmers. Price: S$5,970