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Big on the small stuff

Japanese chef Hideaki Matsuo is fiercely insistent on having his dishes made from scratch. By Debbie Yong

WHEN it comes to packing for guest chef stints abroad, Japanese chef Hideaki Matsuo is used to forgoing precious suitcase space for extra socks or that spare apron for carefully squirrelled away packets of bonito and kelp instead.

Bottling pre-made dashi stock ahead of time or dialling up...

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