Chefs without borders

Labyrinth

5 Neil Road

Hours: 7pm-11pm (Tue-Sun)

Tel 6223 4098

IT'S been almost a decade since Willin Low first coined the term "Mod Sin" to describe his style of fusion cooking, and even the definition of the modern Singaporean, it seems, has been slowly evolving in that time. "The new modern Singaporean is highly globalised," says Han Li Guang. "He or she didn't just grow up on hawker food but on burgers and fries, too. He is more knowledgeable about food and has been to the top restaurants around the world. He's probably tried the bacon ice-cream at The Fat Duck, and is far more receptive to new ideas than the Singaporean diner of 10 years ago."

Mr Han should know - he's checked off all these boxes. The 28-year-old left his corporate banking job two years ago, and after a stint of eating around the world and apprenticing under Michelin-starred chefs, he's now head chef and owner of week-old moder…