andBeyond in Bhutan: Fusing luxury and sustainability 

ANY FREQUENT VISITOR TO BHUTAN will tell you that the kingdom almost always lives up to its promise as a dream nature destination. Its soaring Himalayan mountains, rugged valleys, lush forests and meandering rivers are breathtaking, as if some influencer were Instagram-filtering and photo-editing them every few seconds. 

When you couple that landscape with andBeyond’s upscale yet eco-friendly accommodation, what you get is the perfect nature retreat that allows its guests to immerse themselves in the beauty of the wilderness while enjoying top-notch service and amenities.

For years, andBeyond has carefully positioned itself as a luxury safari and travel company with lavish camps and lodges in prime wildlife areas in Africa and South America. But its latest property in Bhutan is something of a milestone: it is the first andBeyond lodge to open in Asia, an expansion that is set to continue into other parts of the region. 

For now, the andBeyond Punakha River Lodge is setting the bar for its future Asian properties. Located on the banks of the Mo Chhu River of Punakha Valley, it is a predominantly tented accommodation that puts Bhutan’s flora and fauna at the doorstep of its guests, so they may forge strong connections with the landscape.

The lodge boasts six tented suites, as well as a two-bedroom villa with a private pool, and a one-bedroom villa with a plunge pool and hot tub, depending on the season. But whichever one you stay in, you can always hear the faint roar of water gushing across the rocks and riverbeds of Mo Chhu – an elemental hum that facilitates meditation when you close your eyes.

The tented suites are large and splendid. Each boasts 80 square metres of usable guest space, which includes a spacious deck, a king-sized bed, a large bathroom with a bathtub strategically placed underneath a skylight, and an outdoor shower facility. 

A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU

Friday, 2 pm

Lifestyle

Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself.

Sign Up

Because each tented suite is spaced at least 20 metres apart from each other, guests have complete privacy – so complete, in fact, there are no keys provided for the main doors. It is understood that no one will barge in on you unexpectedly, and staff can be fully trusted to keep your belongings safe. 

If your peace is mildly interrupted at all, it is usually by the sounds of birds. Bhutan, as every bird watcher knows, is a haven for avian diversity. The country is home to 7 per cent of the world’s bird species – or 783 species as at 2022, to be exact. 

Because the lodge is located by the water, it is easy to find a comfortable spot on the bank and look out for winged creatures such as the white-capped redstart, common kingfisher and river lapwing. If luck is on your side, you might even spot the white-bellied heron, a majestic but endangered species that has made Punakha River its favoured habitat. 

Morning splendour

City-dwellers love Bhutan because it’s the opposite of a bustling city that never sleeps. Seemingly incurable night owls recover their circadian rhythm, sleeping early at night and waking up at the first light of day, with the chirping of birds as nature’s alarm clock. 

At the lodge, guests are invited to a morning hike up to the Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten. This particularly regal Buddhist shrine is perched on a hilltop overlooking the Punakha Valley and the convergence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers. (Pho and Mo mean “father” and “mother” respectively in Bhutanese.)

The chorten was built to ward off evil spirits and promote peace in the region. It was commissioned by Bhutan’s Queen Mother, Ashi Tshering Yangdon Wangchuck, to bring blessings to the kingdom and its people. But what sets it apart from other chorten are its intricate architectural features. Both the interiors and exteriors are embellished with meticulously crafted paintings and sculptures, highlighting the expertise of Bhutanese craftsmen.

andBeyond is famous for surprising its guests with unexpected treats – and this morning is no different. Even though a light breakfast had been supplied at the lodge before the hike, the staff has secretly prepared a more sumptuous brunch at the top of the hill next to the chorten, where one can gaze wide-eyed at the panoramic views while munching on freshly baked cinnamon buns and strawberries.

After the hike downhill, guests can participate in a variety of activities. Depending on the season, they can enjoy quiet village strolls, off-road mountain bike trails, traditional archery, white-water river rafting and kayaking, or seasonal paddy ploughing and planting. Nearly all these activities are organised by the lodge at no additional cost to the guest.

While some five-star accommodation might leave guests alone to relax in their rooms, andBeyond has always taken a slightly different tack by gently coaxing theirs to connect with landscape and local cultures, learn about indigenous traditions, and support community-based initiatives. 

Of course, you can choose to take the day slow, and there are enough amenities on the property to help you unwind. The lodge’s open-air swimming pool is particularly inviting, surrounded as it is by indigenous flora and rugged mountains. The yoga studio is especially spacious. Meanwhile, the in-house spa offers traditional Bhutanese hot stone baths in wooden bathtubs – a must for first-time visitors.

Spiritual landmarks

Bhutan is much beloved for its Buddhist spirituality. Punakha, as the former capital of Bhutan and the seat of government until 1955, is home to some of Bhutan’s most iconic and sacred landmarks.

These include the Punakha Dzong, a majestic fortress built in 1637 that stands at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers. Up close, the six-storey structure looms against the sky like an ancient guardian, its whitewashed walls and golden spires reaching up towards the heavens.

As you step through its massive wooden doors, you are greeted by a large bodhi tree – a type of tree under which Buddha famously sat, meditated and found enlightenment – followed by a series of serene courtyards, ornate temples and towering halls. 

Another sacred spot worth visiting is the Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Lhakhang Nunnery. Perched on a ridge amid whispering pine trees, the nunnery houses a 4.2-metre tall bronze statue of Avalokiteshvara, meticulously crafted by local Bhutanese artisans. The temple also cradles a pantheon of revered figures in statue, including Buddha, Guru Rinpoche, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, Tsela Namsum, and the 21 Taras.

While there, you might wish to partake in a tshewang (blessing) ceremony, a spiritual rite for those seeking personal empowerment and a life imbued with health and vitality. This brief sacred ritual involves making a wish and lighting butter lamps. Pro tip: wishes are more likely to be granted if they extend beyond personal wants to include the welfare of others. 

Culinary pleasures

Meanwhile, lunches and dinners at the lodge are always an experience. They are often served at surprising locations, such as a spot by the river, a clearing in the forest, or a dark field lit by fairy lights and a bonfire.

The meals feature the talents of chef Rudolf van der Westhuizen, a South African native who’s lived and worked in countries such as Peru, Botswana, China, Japan, Russia and the US. Trained in molecular gastronomy and rustic cuisine, he draws inspiration from the local culture to create one-of-a-kind fusion dishes. 

On the first night, the appetiser options included a Himalayan trout ceviche with charred corn salsa and pineapple chilli jelly, as well as a coconut and ginger pumpkin soup with seed crumble and herb oil. The main dish options include sweet-and-sour cauliflower with coconut sticky rice, broccoli mousse and crispy spinach.

Lunch consists of sharing plates of reinterpreted local dishes such as crispy shredded beef in sticky Szechuan sauce, bao buns with yak meat, and daikon radish carpaccio. A memorable dessert was the suja tea panna cotta with sea buckthorn pearls, a creamy but not overly dense delight.  

Following andBeyond’s conservation ethos, most of the ingredients are locally sourced – just as most of the staff members are hired and trained from surrounding villages, in a bid to upskill and uplift the local community. Indeed, the company’s commitment to community is evident in its ongoing projects, including the construction of vital infrastructure, such as toilet facilities and plans for a road connecting a nearby village to the river. In addition, the lodge is addressing needs in local schools, providing essential equipment and funding.

As the inaugural andBeyond lodge in Asia, the Punakha River Lodge in Bhutan sets an exemplary standard for the company’s future plans in this part of the world.

The writer was a guest of andBeyond. For more information, visit www.andbeyond.com/our-lodges/