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From oblivion rises an Italian white star

Winemaker Luigi Cataldi Madona at the vineyards in Ofena, near L'Aquila. More pecorino is now produced in Abruzzo and he was the first producer to market a pure pecorino based on the varietal name.

Offida, Italy

IT IS the rising star of Italian wine, a greeny-gold white starting to earn an international reputation for its distinctive minerally edge and ageing potential.

Yet pecorino, which shares its name with one of Italy's best-known cheeses, might not even exist but for