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Spain's wine industry is hiccuping from its excesses

Producers wonder if sheer volume is the best way as overproduction sinks both prices and the country's reputation

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A wine laboratory at the El Progreso cooperative in Tomelloso, Spain. El Progreso bottles only about 5 per cent of its wine, the most expensive of which retails for six euros a bottle.

Tomelloso, Spain

FOR many, winemaking conjures up images of rolling vineyards, oak barrels and cavernous cellars.

But here at Virgen de las ViƱas, or Virgin of the Vineyards, the biggest producer in Spain's largest wine region, production comes in the shape of giant steel vats and

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