Europe taste for volcanic pepper lifts Cameroon

Washington

THE volcanic soil of the Penja valley in the West African nation of Cameroon produces the world's most coveted white pepper, prized by Michelin-starred chefs and sold by specialty online shops including Edelices Gourmet Food in the United Kingdom.

With a delicate musky flavour, Penja pepper fetches as much as 31.25 euros (S$47.90) per 100 grams at Edelices, compared with the equivalent of 2.80 euros for the ordinary white variety at Tesco supermarkets. It's one of three African foods to obtain the protected geographical indications label under a system that the European Union wants recognised worldwide.

"It's got herbaceous, grassy notes, with a great flavour, and it doesn't burn," said chef Lior Lev Sercarz, who buys about 150 kilograms a year for his luxury spice shop La Boîte in New York's Hell's Kitchen district. "Most white peppers are mediocre because they aren't dried…