Echoes of Lost Empires on the catwalk

Paris

THERE they were, the petites mains, bent over their pattern tables, kneeling by a hemline, sewing, cutting, basting: 78 of the unheralded artisans of the Chanel couture, in person under the glass dome of the Grand Palais.

Karl Lagerfeld had recreated his ateliers, down to the rolls of fabric, dressmakers' dummies, patterns and pins, the better to demonstrate the reality - and human toil - behind the reconfigured tweed suiting (actually trompe l'oeil embroidery), shoulders extended and flattened into two dimensions without internal structure, and culottes swishing about midcalf, on his runway. Also the glittering tunics with a tailcoat dip in the back over narrow mosaic skirts, LBDs (lengthy black dresses) bristling a feather ruff at the shoulders and neck and exploding at the hem, elaborately pleated and gathered taffeta frocks, and emerald-trimmed duchesse-satin dresses - all worn over thigh-high black ruched suede boots and matching shoulder-length fingerless gloves, and topped by towering curled pompadours.