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The market for your fancy hams just got more crowded

There is a movement in the US to develop its own American versions of jamón ibérico - the world's most exclusive cured meat

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Since the price and quality of jamón ibérico vary widely, Spain's Ministry of Agriculture rolled out designations a few years back that minimise the guesswork.

LIKE Kobe beef and halibut sushi, much of what you see labelled as jamón ibérico is fake. Though the narrative of acorn-fattened pigs roaming the woodlands of western Spain is popular, it appears to be a misleading one: Most ibérico pigs spend their short, unremarkable lives slopping up

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