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What lies behind the beards

Does artisanal equal special? Why we're so ready to believe that it does

Washington

THE beards said it all, really. Long and well groomed, attached to handsome young faces, they were the beards of men who worked the land. The beards of men who built things with their own hands, which, we all surmised, were callused, but clean. Those beards told a story about a

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