WHEN you’re a watchmaking powerhouse with a legacy as rich and storied as Vacheron Constantin, you don’t need to look very far to derive inspiration to develop new watches. 

At the recently concluded third edition of Watches and Wonders Shanghai, which ran from Sep 13 to 17, the 268-year-old watchmaker revealed two models that reference the past, but look strikingly contemporary. This is something the brand does very well. 

The two watches in question are the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding and the Patrimony Self-Winding Jewellery. They build on the releases that Vacheron Constantin showcased at Watches and Wonders Geneva in March, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon and the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date. 

Here’s the inside scoop on this winsome quartet. 

Traditionnelle Manual-Winding Don’t let the apparent simplicity of this piece fool you; there’s a historical precedence for this minimalist, monochromatic looker. Christian Selmoni, the brand’s director of style and heritage, said monochromatic dials first appeared on Vacheron Constantin watches in the 19th century. 

Back then, timepieces were richly decorated on the case side, and the dials were left plain. “The monochrome green sunburst dial of the Traditionnelle model continues this tradition while adopting a more contemporary approach, recalling the advent of ultra-thin watches in the early 20th century,” he said.

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The green hue is bang on-trend as well. The watch comes with a tone-on-tone alligator strap to reinforce its verdant appeal. Two sizes are available, 38 mm and 33 mm, with the smaller one sporting a ring of 54 diamonds on its bezel. 

Open case backs let you appreciate the finely crafted and finished movements: Calibre 4400AS with a 65-hour power reserve in the 38 mm model, and Calibre 1440 with a 42-hour power reserve in the 33 mm version.

Traditionnelle Tourbillon Like a fitted pair of denim jeans, the tourbillon is one of those features that can be dressed up or down, and will look good either way. This model is pared down, but the effect is no less alluring. 

The 41 mm platinum case and sunburst green dial serve as a canvas for this work of mechanical art, which has an open-worked carriage shaped like the brand’s emblematic Maltese Cross. Hand-bevelling the carriage bar alone takes 12 hours. 

This is a watch for connoisseurs. The proof is in the leisurely pace at which the tourbillon rotates. It hums at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), compared to the 4 Hz frequency in most modern watches – allowing wearers to enjoy its balletic performance via the dial side or the sapphire case back, where the use of a peripheral rotor ensures unobstructed views. 

Patrimony Self-Winding Jewellery The Patrimony is the furthest thing from being a flashy watch. In fact, it is quite the opposite: Inspired by classic watches of the 1950s, it’s the most sober, discreet expression of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking finesse. 

So it was quite a surprise when the brand unveiled this gem-encrusted beaut in Shanghai, resplendent in the fire of 769 diamonds, including 420 snow-set on the dial. 

Selmoni said: “Until now, the Patrimony collection has only offered a delicate setting on the bezel, or even the dial, of certain 36.5 mm-diameter models. However, we felt that the elegance of the collection lent itself admirably to a bolder version in terms of setting. That’s why we opted for a snow setting on the dial, which offers this singular aspect of random preciousness with a fascinating sparkle.” 

As jewellery enthusiasts know, the technique for snow setting is demanding. The gem-setter needs to select each diamond, all with different diameters, to carpet the dial entirely, with the end goal of obtaining a perfectly even surface and maximum radiance. 

This watch is paired with a pearlescent blue alligator leather strap and runs on an automatic movement.

Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date Launched in Geneva earlier this year, the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is packed with details that allude to Vacheron Constantin’s heritage.  For one thing, its salmon-coloured dial is a throwback to timepieces of the 1940s and 1990s, when the elegant shade was last in vogue. Salmon has made a return in the last few years, and looks set to stay a few more years. 

Retrograde displays are another of the watchmaker’s signature specialities, and this Patrimony model boasts two of them – date on the upper half of the dial, and day-of-the-week on the lower half. 

As Selmoni described, the first Vacheron Constantin wristwatch to feature a retrograde date was the legendary “Don Pancho”, commissioned by a customer in Madrid in 1935, which also featured a minute repeater and calendar functions. 

One of the most important pieces in the watchmaker’s history, the Don Pancho sold for 740,000 Swiss francs (S$1.1 million) at a Phillips auction in 2019, making it the second most expensive wristwatch the brand has ever sold at auction. 

Owning this Patrimony, then, is akin to owning a piece of history, even if it’s by association. Crafted in 950 platinum, the watch is fitted with a dark blue alligator strap. Its annual production is limited.