A surfeit of riches

SOME stunning names were lined up on the table at a recent dinner. Chateau Petrus 1978, Montrachet 1996, Bouchard Pere et Fils, Chambolle-Musigny 1er cru Les Amoureuses 2007, Robert Groffier, Ruchottes Chambertin 1999, Domaine Armand Rousseau, Krug Champagne 1996. It was a roll call of the greatest.

Krug Champagne Vintage 1996

A lovely champagne, light golden colour, very fresh aroma, lightly citrusy and fruity, lovely weight on the palate, perfect ripeness with wonderful freshness, and a long, lightly lingering closure. Could not be more perfect. For all its 20-year-old life, at its peak and holding very well; fully capable of another 20 years!

This is a champagne that will age into a wonderful old style; still fresh, but bearing a mellown…