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Dominique Lafon in his cellar in Meursault. Any Montrachet is too big a wine and too expensive to drink before it is ready, which means waiting from eight to 10 years.

The incomparable Montrachet

This white wine, with its sheer power, incredible intensity, refined richness combined with complexity, and amazing freshness, has a tendency to overwhelm.
Jun 10, 2016 5:50 AM

NAMING a favourite wine is a tough call. Romanee-Conti and Musigny among red burgundies; Châteaux Lafite, Latour, and Margaux among the reds come to mind. Montrachets and Alsace Riesling Clos Ste Hune among the whites. A single desert island wine? At dinner recently, a Montrachet was generously