The incomparable Montrachet

NAMING a favourite wine is a tough call. Romanee-Conti and Musigny among red burgundies; Châteaux Lafite, Latour, and Margaux among the reds come to mind. Montrachets and Alsace Riesling Clos Ste Hune among the whites. A single desert island wine? At dinner recently, a Montrachet was generously offered by my host. That crystallized my thoughts. A white wine, Montrachet!

Le Montrachet Grand Cru 1998, Marquis de Laguiche, Maison Joseph Drouhin

(At dinner on May 5, 2016.) A mature brilliant gold in colour, a gorgeous sight. Bouquet still youthful, notwithstanding its 18 years, lovely light and lemony fragrance. Not a fat wine, just firm and compact, but very ripe fruit, well-balanced. Perhaps a little short on finish.