Understanding Burgundy

AT dinner a week ago, three simple Village wines (in magnum) from the village of Chambolle-Musigny formed the highlight of the evening.

Chambolle-Musigny 1997 en magnum, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue

Medium-hued cherry red, with brownish edges. Lovely nose of purest pinot noir, midway in intensity between the Roumier and the Mugnier. And on the palate, also midway between the two, very fine, very fresh, and the best drinking of the three. Perhaps because it has had the most bottle-age.

Chambolle Musigny 1999 en magnum, Domaine Georges Roumier

Quite deep red, with lightest tint of brown at edges. Lo…