Imbibing the culture of Burgundy

I HAD three great Burgundies last night at dinner - my hostess was a very dear friend who shares my love of wine, hence the wines. While absorbed in the study and enjoyment of the complexities and beauty of those wines, the words of Roger Scruton, resident scholar, American Enterprise Institute, Washington, came to mind: "Burgundy is not a drink, it is a culture."

All three wines invoked images and memories of Burgundy - the people, proprietors and winemakers, wine-tasting in the cellars from cask, dinner in their homes and restaurants. But similar memories are also associated with wines from Bordeaux, Spain, Italy and such, and I am constrained to amend Roger Scruton's words and say instead that "Fine wine is not a drink but a culture."

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 1993, Domaine Meo-Camuzet