Michelin-starred Meta reopens in Mohamed Sultan with elevated modern Korean cuisine

Chef Sun Kim’s modern Korean cooking isn’t a wow a minute, but a slow burn that leaves a lasting impression

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Jaime Ee

Published Thu, Sep 14, 2023 · 11:06 PM

Meta's new minimalist interiors. PHOTO: META
Salmon 'sandwich' is one of many intricate snacks to start off the meal. PHOTO: META
Beef tartare sits atop crispy seaweed-wrapped sushi rice. PHOTO: JAIME EE
Striped jack sashimi, squid and razor clam are cooked in three different ways. PHOTO: JAIME EE
Creamy porridge topped with grilled Jeju abalone. PHOTO: JAIME EE
Everything sweetcorn in an elegant dessert. PHOTO: META

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REVISIT Meta Restaurant 9 Mohamed Sultan Road Singapore 238959 Tel: 6513 0898 Open for dinner only Tues to Thurs: 6 pm to 11.30 pm. Lunch and dinner Fri and Sat: 12 pm to 3 pm; 6.30 pm to 11.30 pm. Closed on Sun and Mon

YOU know how late bloomers work. They waffle about, giving little inkling of the greatness they’re capable of. Then suddenly, they make the kind of transformation that causes you to sit back and go, “wow”.

Meta chef Sun Kim is a little like that. His waffling days have long past since he first opened the restaurant in 2015 – we were convinced he’d fully bloomed when he moved to his second location in 2020. But now, at Meta’s current iteration in Mohamed Sultan, you wonder if the smell of paint and the excitement of moving to new digs triggered a spike in his dopamine levels – because version three is his most polished effort yet.

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