'Real' French camembert plays David to industrial Goliath

Camembert, France

IT'S a cheese maker's take on David and Goliath. Camembert, the village that gave its name to France's most famous - and imitated - cheese, has only one remaining traditional fromagerie still making the speciality. And it's holding its own against big industry.

As they tend cows and ladle curdled raw milk into low, wooden cylindrical moulds, the Durand family and their employees don't look like militants in a Gallic culinary battle against globalisation.