An Italian food hall opens, sans the cheese

Moscow

YURI Tetrov was months away from opening Russia's first Eataly, a giant new market and restaurant hall for what is arguably the world's most ambitious chain of Italian mega-delis. Then President Vladimir Putin introduced a vast food embargo on European delicacies to retaliate for sanctions against Russia.

That was 2014. After a delay of more than two years, the cavernous spot in central Moscow, about a third larger than a football field, is finally opening for business. Still absent are Italian-made meats and cheeses, although shelves are heaving with authentic San Marzano tomatoes from the foot of Mount Vesuvius, pizza made from Mulino Marino stone-milled flour near Turin and Lavazza coffee.