Oregon chardonnay escapes the buttery cliches
BY FAR, the most popular wine in the United States is chardonnay. Although it has been America's white wine of choice for decades, chardonnay has always been polarizing.
Virus stole his sense of smell - and changed his wine palate
THIS is a story about what happens when one of life's joys is taken away, perhaps forever. In this case, it is wine, but it could as easily have been painting, cooking, dancing, or playing golf or tennis.
The polarising power of orange wine
FROM a distance, what divides white wines from reds seems pretty clear. Yes, the colour is obvious, but it's also the methods of production.
Tricky dance of sharing a winery in the pandemic era
NO business is built to withstand the physical distancing demands of the coronavirus pandemic. But Pax Mahle Wines here in western Sonoma County is less equipped than most.
In pairing wine and food, experience is the best teacher
PAIRING wine with food has come to symbolise much of the intimidation, apprehension and pretension that, for many people, intrude on the elemental enjoyment of a good bottle.
France defines natural wine, but is that enough?
NATURAL wine is healthy and pure; natural wine is wretched and horrible. It is the future of wine; it is the death of wine.
American wine producers facing fear, uncertainty and hope
LIOCO Wine Co is in survival mode. Under ordinary circumstances, this small California wine producer buys grapes from vineyards in Sonoma County, Mendocino County and the Santa Cruz Mountains to make expressive, nuanced wines.
Finding comfort in a bottle of familiar wine
LIKE so many others, my wife and I have been self-isolating in our apartment, doing our best to stay close to our loved ones from afar, and cooking the foods that we find most comforting: split-pea soup, various bean dishes, spaghetti and meatballs, just for starters.
A wine can be thin and bitter - but in a good way
THE first question many people ask about a wine is: "What does it taste like?"
Wine Is For Sharing. What Does That Mean In Self-Quarantine?
IN SHORT order, the world has changed - and so has the thinking about public gatherings. Parties have been postponed. Restaurants have closed, and we have had to reconsider commonplace activities such as gathering with our friends.
A vintage bash for all things Burgundy
THE finale of La Paulée de New York last Saturday saw a gathering of 400 or so wine lovers, including groups from as far as Mexico, Brazil and Scandinavia, who had paid US$1,500 apiece for the seven-course meal and a chance to mingle with more than 40 of Burgundy's finest vignerons, the people...
A second look at Rosso di Montalcino shows up its inconsistency
BACK in 2014, the last time The New York Times' wine panel tried Rosso di Montalcino, one taster did not restrain himself in criticising the wines.
Rioja Gran Reserva, a wine beginning to be shaped by time
IT'S been widely accepted in the wine world for years that people can no longer be expected to age wines as they might have half a century ago.
He's in a cabernet franc state of mind
RECENTLY, I attended a tasting that examined neither a particular wine through the years nor a specific site. Instead, it was a vertical of one man's journey through the wine business, making cabernet francs in New York state over 25 years, both on the North Fork of Long Island and in the Finger...
The world of mezcal evolves and grows
jLOOKING back at the last time the spirits panel tasted mezcal, I was shocked to realise that almost a decade had passed. The flavours and the sense of discovery we experienced still seemed so fresh.
Searching for distinctive character of California syrah
SOME wines confirm assumptions. Others shock the system.
Wine industry fears Trump tariff threat fallout
MOST years, January is a time for the wine trade to pause and congratulate itself.
For a sweet 2020, look to the bitter in wine
MANY good wines have a built-in defence against being consumed by children: They are inherently bitter, a flavour that children seem genetically hard-wired to abhor. Eventually, taste buds evolve. Young adults come to love many bitter flavours, whether in beer, dark chocolate, arugula, Negronis...
Pick Rosé Champagne to celebrate the holiday season
CHAMPAGNE used to be such a simple thing. You popped a cork, and the gushing fountain of wine cued celebratory joy.
Now is the time for American sparkling wines
ALMOST every region in the world that produces still wine makes some form of sparkling wine as well. Given this bounty, why would consumers choose American sparkling wines?
Some of the best wine moments of 2019
LIKE sublime meals and glorious journeys, great wines create great memories. They leave impressions to be pondered and stories to be told. I have the privilege of tasting many wines over the course of a year. In 2019, these are the 12 that left the most lasting memories, in chronological order...
Best wine books not always about wine
THE BEST wine book I read this year was not about wine. It was about cider, though not entirely. It was really about trees and places, agriculture and culture, and the tension between nature and industry. All of which is about wine and a lot more.
In Napa Valley, winemakers fight climate change on all fronts
EVERY wine region has had to deal with some manifestation of climate change, but few have had to deal with as many devastating consequences as Napa Valley.
Malbecs from Argentina fight the stereotypes
MANY cuisines brought by immigrants to the United States have long been pigeonholed as cheap and plentiful, part of a high-volume, low-margin business.
Countering the effects of climate change: High altitudes, old grapes
HIGH in the foothills of the Pyrenees, outside this small city in northwestern Catalonia, one of the most unusual vineyards in the world can be found on a plateau and descending along stony slopes.