New York

THE conversation turned to old New York - specifically, old New York restaurants. Restaurateur Dean J Poll was doing the remembering.

"Luchow's is gone," he said. "Mama Leone's. Now the Four Seasons as we knew it, we'll never see it again." He mentioned La Caravelle, an elegant French redoubt that closed in 2004, and the Cattleman, a steakhouse that once had singalong sessions every night. It, too, is long gone.