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How big business got Brazil hooked on junk food

They are contributing to health problems and foiling laws to remedy dietary impact of processed food

Published Sun, Sep 17, 2017 · 09:50 PM

Fortaleza, Brazil

CELENE da Silva, 29, is one of thousands of door-to-door vendors for Nestlé, helping the world's largest packaged food conglomerate expand its reach into a quarter-million households in Brazil's farthest-flung corners.

As she dropped off variety packs of Chandelle pudding, Kit-Kats and Mucilon infant cereal, there was something striking about her customers: Many were visibly overweight, even small children.

Ms Da Silva, who herself weighs more than 90kg, recently discovered that she had high blood pressure, a condition she acknowledges is probably tied to her weakness for fried chicken and the Coca-Cola she drinks with every meal, breakfast included.

Nestlé's direct-sales army in Brazil is part of a broader transformation of the food system that is delivering Western-style processed food and sugary drinks to the most isolated pockets of Latin America, Africa and Asia. As their growth slows in the wealthiest countries, multinational food companies such as Nestlé, PepsiCo and General Mills have been aggressively expanding their pres…

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