Growing rice under war's shadow in the Demilitarised Zone

Taesung, South Korea

ALL day long, and all through the night, the villagers hear the music. It is loud and chirpy, with lyrics trumpeting the virtues of their sworn enemy, North Korea.

"It feels so close now," said Cho Young-sook, 57, standing in a second-floor bedroom in her home, where she can see into North Korea and hear the propaganda songs booming at all hours. "The loudspeakers remind us that maybe they can attack us."

Th…