Foie gras or ‘faux gras’? Paris chef offers festive vegan alternative
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VEGAN and animal-friendly alternatives to foie gras are taking off in France just as a severe bird flu outbreak has ravaged duck flocks and tightened supplies of the traditional Christmas delicacy.
French chef Fabien Borgel, who manages vegan restaurant 42 Degres in Paris, created what he calls “faux gras” two years ago as a substitute for foie gras, which is traditionally made from fattened duck and goose livers.
Foie gras is considered part of France’s cultural and gastronomic heritage, but many condemn the practice of force-feeding ducks or geese to enlarge their livers. Some countries and US states, such as California and New York, have considered banning the dish because of animal welfare concerns.
Borgel said: “You have people who have never tasted foie gras and (never will), and they want something festive for the year-end parties. Others want to change the way they eat and are heading towards alternatives.”
His vegan “faux gras”, which contains cashew nuts, sunflower oil and coconut oil, looks like the traditional version but is creamier.
In France, which is the largest producer of the dish, output of foie gras is expected to fall 30-35 per cent from last year, after bird flu devastated duck flocks in most of Europe. Comite Interprofessionnel des Palmipedes a Foie Gras, a group of producers, said that prices could also rise about 20 per cent due to the drop in supply, combined with soaring costs.
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“It could make some people want to try something else,” Borgel said. “It could be an opportunity.”
His “faux gras” will be on the menu of 42 Degres from December to February.
On Wednesday (Dec 14), a poll by French foie gras producers showed that 77 per cent of domestic consumers were not ready to switch from the original dish to one made from plant-based components.
But Borgel was optimistic: “There is room for everyone.” REUTERS
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