Winemakers warn of a coming Burgundy 'apocalypse'

New York

FOR years, vintages of Burgundy have been smaller and smaller, while prices have gone up and up. Rain, floods and hailstorms have decimated vineyards since 2010, especially in the Côte de Beaune (the southern part of the famous limestone strip that's home to the most famous vineyards). Growers invested in weird anti-hail devices, but, alas, they haven't worked. Regional businesses are facing a crisis of how to survive.

The chardonnay grape harvest was down 30 per cent in 2013, pinot noir as much as 50 per cent. In 2014, which had some of the worst weather in recent memory, some winemakers lost 90 per cent of their crop; 2016 is already looking to be worse, weather-wise. This means the remaining grapes are much more expensive, and businesses that depend on making wines from them will be forced to pay a premium they increasingly can't afford.