A Tuscan diary

NO wine column can be without the occasional comments about locations where good wine and good food can be found together without paying an arm and a leg. I am writing (from a comfortable bedroom in Alba in the Piemonte, Italy), about a small homey restaurant called Osteria le Panzanelle in the tiny village of Lucarelli which lies on the road from Panzano to Radda in Chianti.

Lucarelli itself consist…