Bell & Ross reframes the square with the BR-X3 Micro-Rotor and BR-05 Blue Diamond Eagle 36-mm

[SINGAPORE] Bell & Ross has built its name on an instantly recognisable design language: a square case, four signature screws, cockpit-inspired cues and a philosophy rooted in legibility, precision, functionality and reliability. This year, the French brand stretches that distinctive identity with two new releases at opposite ends of the watchmaking spectrum. The first is the BR-X3 Micro-Rotor, a 99-piece limited series that merges the case and movement into one semi-skeletonised structure. The second is the BR-05 Blue Diamond Eagle 36-mm, whose diamond-set dial offers a more poetic take on the brand’s urban BR-05 line.

Together, they represent what Fabien de Nonancourt, Bell & Ross’ managing director, describes as the brand’s dual creative instincts. “There are different ways to express our creativity and innovation: in the movement and also the design. Our iconic square design is a fantastic platform for that purpose and you’ll immediately recognise that both watches are Bell & Ross even without the logo,” he says in an email interview.

Architecture laid bare

The BR-X3 Micro-Rotor builds on the integrated case-and-movement concept introduced in last year’s BR-X3 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor, but with a more pared-back, minimalist aesthetic.

“We wanted to preserve the unique construction of the movement with its horizontal and vertical lines,” says de Nonancourt of the linear, grid-like architecture that is central to the watch’s visual appeal. Not only does the 40-mm BR-03 case house the movement, it also forms part of its structure, with the square case middle directly supporting the bridges, so that case and calibre become a single entity. This radical assembly relies on just three elements: a central steel plate forming the case-movement block, and an upper and lower sapphire crystal.

This design philosophy was outlined by Bell & Ross co-founder and creative director Bruno Belamich, as de Nonancourt explains, “The bold principle set by Bruno was that the mechanics become a spectacle and watchmaking reveals its artistic dimension. The movement becomes the absolute protagonist. For this model, the case and movement are an inseparable whole that is structurally connected.” The semi-skeletonised BR-CAL.390 is a proprietary automatic calibre with a micro-rotor set within the movement instead of a traditional oscillating weight positioned above it. This helps keep the watch to a slender 9-mm, while still delivering a 48-hour power reserve.

“Our approach was unconventional. We started with a skeletonised version and then studied how to fill it to make it semi-skeletonised,” reveals de Nonancourt.

Rendered in monochrome grey and steel are brushed bridges, micro-blasted mainplates and polished bevels that lend the watch an industrial elegance. Time is also reduced to the essentials, with two rhodium-plated hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova, which emits a blue glow in low light. A grey calfskin strap with a faux alligator-leather finish completes the watch. 

Precious art on the wrist

Although bejewelled watches aren’t typically associated with Bell & Ross, the BR-05 Blue Diamond Eagle 36-mm allows the brand to explore a more expressive and unconventional side of its identity.

Revisiting a concept that debuted 10 years ago, the new model flaunts a diamond-set dial depicting the Eagle constellation and reinterprets it in the watchmaker’s smallest BR-05 case, a 36-mm format introduced in 2025. 

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“The first Diamond Eagle concept was very successful,” says de Nonancourt. “This unique and graphic way of setting diamonds on the dial brings a bold, artistic dimension to the BR-05 design, making the watch a statement piece that plays with light, texture and emotion. We also thought the smaller 36-mm size is ideal for women.” 

Its dial is made of blue aventurine glass, the shimmering material associated with Murano glassmakers and said to have been an accidental discovery when copper filings fell into molten glass.

Beautiful but fragile, aventurine is sensitive to temperature changes and prone to micro-cracks, making it notoriously difficult to cut and drill. Seven diamonds are set into the dial to trace the exact positions of the stars in the Eagle constellation.

Placed between 10 and 11 o’clock, the largest represents the bird’s head and Altair, the constellation’s biggest and brightest star. Three medium-sized diamonds depict the wings and tail, while three more complete the outline. A further 12 diamonds mark the hours, bringing the total to 18 stones in three sizes.

Each one is mounted in a custom brass setting secured by four prongs, then inserted into holes meticulously drilled into the aventurine glass. The three-hand watch is powered by the automatic BR-CAL.329 with a 54-hour power reserve and presented on a satin-finished and polished steel case with a matching integrated steel bracelet.