The Best of Fashion and Gems
Van Cleef & Arpels shows why couture and diamonds have a special place in its jewellery design.
Corinne Kerk
FRENCH LUXURY JEWELLERY MAISON Van Cleef & Arpels has always drawn inspiration from the world of couture for its dazzling creations. Spurred by fashion through the ages, its high jewellery collections, in particular, have historically been innovatively crafted using the most stunning gems the maison could get its hands on.
Ever since its foundation in 1906 at Paris’ Place Vendôme, Van Cleef & Arpels has, through the intelligent and imaginative use of precious stones and materials, paid homage to its place of birth.
Whether it is the reinterpretation of the fluidity of fabric in gold and precious materials, or the inventive crafting of a precious necklace or supple bracelet, the maison links haute couture with haute joaillerie through creations of timeless elegance.
Case in point are creations from its Legend of Diamonds collection, which feature timeless motifs such as ribbons fashioned from gorgeous stones and using remarkable techniques.
Launched in July, its Legend of Diamonds – 25 Mystery Set Jewels collection uses 67 diamonds cut from a massive 910-carat rough diamond called the Lesotho Legend to create 25 stunning jewellery creations. Each one employs its complex, trademarked Mystery Set signature technique that sets rubies, sapphires or emeralds with no prong or other metal component visible.
Not only do the creations exhibit a gorgeous velvety radiance, some of them can also be transformed such that they can be worn in different ways.
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Take the multi-dimensional Volutes Mystérieuses necklace for instance. Timeless elegant motifs from the world of couture are expressed through the tight lines of its bow echo diamond clips from the 1920s, while diamonds on the ribbon’s border evoke the Art Deco style and a 30.61-carat oval diamond makes a bold, sparkling statement in the centre of the jewel. Accompanying the necklace is a pair of earrings whose Mystery Set rubies are crossed in places by lines of rose gold and which are adorned with 2 detachable oval diamonds of more than 15 carats each that can be added to the ribbons on the necklace.
Since the 1970s, Between the Finger rings have reflected the spirit of innovation and inventiveness that drives Van Cleef & Arpels. These clever designs offer a fresh approach to the art of wearing jewellery, with 2 motifs linked by an open ring facing each other, hugging the central finger while displaying its fabulous gems across the other digits.
The Duo Mystérieux Between the Finger ring perfectly demonstrates how this ingenious shape creates an inverted mirror effect, enhanced by the intense reflections of 2 emerald-cut diamonds on either side. Meanwhile, ribbons of buff-topped Mystery Set rubies and pink sapphires appear to spring from the diamonds and flow ever so smoothly over the fingers. An absolute marvel to wear.
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Another fine example of Van Cleef & Arpels’ couture-inspired jewellery design is the lovely Draperie Mystérieuse clip, which took inspiration from the draped gowns designed by leading French couturier and costume designer, Madame Grès, in the 1950s. This clip realistically imitates the elegant fall of fabric, as the Mystery Set emeralds and sapphires meet the snow-set diamonds adorning the fold on either side. Suspended from one end of the clip, 3 pear-cut diamonds poetically follow the movements of the creation’s silhouette.
Following on the heels of the 25 Mystery Set Jewels collection, comes chapter 2 of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Legend of Diamonds high jewellery collection – White Diamond Variations.
Of course, diamonds have featured prominently since the very first creation sold by the maison in 1906 – a heart set with brilliant-cut diamonds – and continue to take centre stage in many of its collections today, from nature to couture.
With White Diamond Variations, the maison has dug into its creative history to conceive 82 brilliant creations, taking us on a fabulous voyage that revisits its rich heritage, and reinterprets distinctive styles that reflect different eras – including from the world of couture.
Also transformable into a clip, the Diamond Chandelier earrings highlight couture-inspired motifs, their design echoing that of a clip presented in the fine jewellery catalogue published by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1922. Not only do their openwork and flowing lines deliver a distinctive, refined appearance, look closely and you will discover subtle details. A variety of diamond cuts – round, baguette, calibrated, marquise, and pear – and settings – closed, half-closed, prong, grain, and cornered – make this a truly inspired creation.
The jaw-dropping highlight of the collection, however, must be the Vagues Étincelantes.
This necklace is inspired by the reticella or needle lace collars worn by women since the Renaissance and remained extremely popular for the next 3 centuries. The Vagues Étincelantes’ lines also draw their silhouette from the Médicis necklace created by the maison in 1937 and shown at the International Exhibition of Arts and Techniques in Paris.
To create the concave structure of the creation reminiscent of a sparkling wave surging at the hollow of the neck, the maison’s craftsmen made discreet articulations to ensure flexibility when worn and set the diamonds on the curved collar before meticulously polishing every surface.
Vertical rows of diamonds follow one another to create a spectacular ensemble on the choker, while briolettes are suspended at their tips like droplets, dancing with every movement. The necklace rests gently and regally on the neck, a foam of diamonds almost too magnificent for words.
As these highlights reveal, Van Cleef & Arpels’ jewellery designs have an inextricable connection with couture.
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