Patek Philippe’s annual calendar turns 30

ALL EYES MAY BE ON Patek Philippe’s iconic Nautilus as it celebrates its 50th birthday in 2026, but that shouldn’t detract from the brand’s equally worthy annual calendar, which turns 30 this year.

The innovative complication wristwatch made history when it was launched in 1996. To mark its third decade, Patek Philippe has quietly released two new timepieces, including the Reference 4946G. 

Also making a discreet appearance is the Golden Ellipse, which makes a comeback in its original proportions. The elegant and ultra-slim dress watch, distinguished by its elliptical-shaped case, had been discontinued in 2009, though a larger version has remained in production. 

Ref 4946G Annual Calendar Moon Phases

Before the annual calendar, there was the simple calendar and the complex perpetual calendar watch. 

The simple calendar tracks the date but needs a correction for every month with fewer than 31 days. The perpetual calendar tracks the date, day and month automatically without correction; it also automatically adjusts for leap years.

The annual calendar fills the gap between the two. It tracks the date, day and month automatically and needs a correction only once a year on Mar 1, because it is not programmed to remember that February is shorter than 30 days.

The annual calendar is an improvement over the simple calendar timer. While it’s not as capable as the perpetual calendar, it is cheaper and easier to operate.

Patek Philippe’s first annual calendar was the Ref 5035, which paved the way for other major watch brands. The annual calendar has appeared in multiple layouts in Patek Philippe’s collections since, from the classic Ref 5146 rolled out in 2005, to the more modern Ref 5205 launched in 2010.

The Ref 4946 is presented as a balanced, contemporary watch. The first version, introduced in 2021, came in a 38 mm stainless steel case, Calatrava style. A rose gold model was unveiled last year. 

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This year, the reference is further expanded with the 4946G in white gold. 

The 38 mm complication is fresh and modern, sporting a casual look highlighted by a blue-grey calfskin leather strap with a denim motif. Its blue-grey dial has a double vertical and horizontal satin finish, mimicking the look of raw silk fabric from China’s Shantung province.

Price: S$87,500

Ref 3738/100G and 5738G Golden Ellipse

The Golden Ellipse flaunts a case with a shape that’s easy on the eye. Its dimensions are derived from the “golden ratio”, a mathematical formula describing perfection and natural balance.

Measuring 31.1 by 35.6 mm and just under 6.0 mm thick, the watch slips easily under a shirt cuff, making it a favourite luxury dress watch. Patek Philippe has even produced a whole range of accessories to go with it: cufflinks, rings, lighters and money clips.

The Golden Ellipse was rolled out in 1968. In 1977, the hand-winding watch was replaced by Ref 3738, powered by an ultra-thin, self-winding movement. While most of the timepieces produced were in yellow gold, rose gold and platinum models also appeared between 2005 and 2008.

The Golden Ellipse celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2018, when a “Jumbo” version, the Ref 5738 measuring 34.5 by 39.5 mm, was launched.

The Ref 3738 returns unchanged in size. At 5.99 mm thick, its slim profile still makes it the thinnest watch in Patek Philippe’s current catalogues. 

However, the case is in white gold and frames a new olive-green sunburst dial – aesthetics that hark back to the 1970s. The watch, which runs on the same self-winding calibre 240 with a 22 kt gold micro-rotor, is paired with a shiny olive-green strap with cream contrast stitching and white gold pin buckles.

The Ref 3738 is accompanied by the Ref 5738G, a new Jumbo version of the Golden Ellipse which also comes in white gold with an olive-green sunburst dial and an olive-green strap.

Price: S$58,000 (Ref 3738), S$61,500 (Ref 5738)