Luka Zhang Lei: Beauty & brains
The fiercely cerebral model is one of the rising faces of Singapore’s fashion scene
THE WORD “FIERCE” GETS USED a lot in fashion to mean “bold”, “strong” and “independent”. When looking at rising Singapore model Luka Zhang Lei, that word is about the only one that comes to mind. Blessed with long limbs, high cheekbones and a penetrating gaze, Zhang cuts an androgynous figure in almost any piece of haute couture, making her something of a fashion photographer’s dream.
But nothing in those images can quite prepare you for the real Zhang, who also happens to be a fiercely intelligent recent PhD graduate from Nanyang Technological University’s School of Humanities. Her dissertation centred on working-class literature, a genre of writing that looks at the realities and struggles of the working class, often penned with dignity by those hailing from it. She explored the writings of Singapore’s Tan Kok Seng, Chong Han and migrant worker-poet Mohd Mukul Hossine, as well as that of Chinese writers Hu Wanchun, Zhang Lijia and others.
Her interest in working-class literature stems from her background: Her father is a driver and her mother used to be a cleaning lady in residential compounds, now she helps out in an office. “Personally and politically, working-class literature holds a special place in my heart. I love the writings of Maxim Gorky, Annie Ernaux, Edouard Louis, Rolinda Onates Espanola, Xu Lizhi and Takiji Kobayashi, among others.”
Indeed, modelling is just an accident on the way to potentially becoming a full-time academic. She recalls: “In late 2021, my aspiring photographer friend Vanny Mao took pictures of me and posted them on Instagram. Soon after that, NOW Models got in touch and invited me to try and be a model. And since I was (and am) in dire need of money to survive, I said yes.”
Quick study
Zhang professes to have had little initial understanding of the fashion world. But that keen intelligence made her a quick study. Soon she was pouting and posing for the camera like a seasoned pro. Two of those shoots landed her on the cover of Female magazine’s April and October 2022 issues. One showed her in a stunning silver Balenciaga statement dress, the other in a black Chanel suit with sequins.
Zhang, for her part, processes her year-long modelling journey cerebrally – as she does with everything else. She’s been reading Ashley Mears’ sociological research Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model, which she describes as “highly relatable”. Dr Mears used to be a model herself and “writes very well about the hardships and predicaments in the world of modelling and fashion”, she says.
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“For me, it is a very overwhelming industry. For the editorials I did, I was amazed by how much time and energy the entire team (usually about five or six professionals) spent on each shot… Getting to know the people behind the scenes of the modelling and fashion industry has been a surprise. Since I hadn’t met fashion photographers, magazine editors, make-up artists or stylists before, the past year was a great opportunity to learn a lot about the fashion industry from their labouring and creative experiences.”
When she’s not preening for the camera, she goes back to her natural state of geeking out on the arts and social sciences: “I love Russian literature, I read Anton Chekhov every year, and I love Fyodor Dostoevsky. I also love cinema. There are films by Jean-Luc Godard, Liliana Cavani, Krzysztof Kieslowski and Lou Ye that have taken a very significant place in my emotional life. For music, I like post-punk related things… Generally speaking, I enjoy subjects related to literature, philosophy and politics.”
Foodie family
When asked how she celebrates Chinese New Year, Zhang continues to surprise: “To be honest, it is a complicated situation for me. My father is a Chinese Muslim (from the Hui people) and his family (some of them are very religious) does not celebrate Chinese New Year at all.
“Growing up in a Muslim family, I was very confused about celebrating Chinese New Year with my mother’s family. I felt like I had betrayed my Muslim family. However, it was through my father that I started understanding Chinese New Year as an avenue of tenderness and love.
“He doesn’t celebrate Chinese New Year himself but he makes the effort to celebrate with my mother’s family and cook for them. With the help of my mom, he cooks 16 dishes for New Year’s Eve.”
Food has been the bond that binds the multi-religious family: “In 2013, my father asked me to design a fusion menu with him for my mother’s family. We did it together with my mom, and she was very happy about it. It took him a long time to prepare, and we all cooked together for a few hours. They’re both very good cooks… Those few hours are my best memories of Chinese New Year.”
Asked if she would choose academia or fashion as her future career, Zhang says: “I find the whole intellectual world of passion and devotion very appealing to me, so I really hope to do well in academia… To be honest, I haven’t really set my long-term goals yet. But perhaps I can quote two lines from one of my favourite poets, Paul Celan, which goes: “Trust the trail of tears / and learn to live.”
Credits Fashion direction: CK Photography: Min Hua, Telescope Studios Photography assistant: Jeremy Kieran, Telescope Studios Grooming: Kat Zhang, The Suburbs Studio, using Dior Beauty Hair: Christvian Wu Location: Here Kitty Kitty
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