JEWELLERY

Celebrating an ever-evolving icon

Bulgari’s Serpenti marks 75 years of creative transformation.

Corinne Kerk

Published Fri, Apr 14, 2023 · 01:07 PM
    • Left to right: Serpenti bangle, necklace and earrings in white gold with pavè diamonds and emeralds
    • Left to right: Serpenti bangle, necklace and earrings in white gold with pavè diamonds and emeralds PHOTO: GREENPLASTICSOLDIERS

    IT IS A SYMBOL OF medicine and healing, of renewal and of immortality.

    The mythical serpent, which carries plenty of cultural connotations, has been Bulgari’s muse since 1948, when the first Serpenti creations debuted as jewellery-watches cleverly designed to wrap around the wrist.

    Left to right: Serpenti earrings in rose gold with pavè diamonds and malachite; Serpenti Sautoir necklace in rose gold with malachite; Serpenti ring in rose gold with pavè diamonds and malachite. PHOTO: GREENPLASTICSOLDIERS

    The ingenious Tubogas technique, which featured masterful goldsmithing to create flexible tubular bands of gold, gave way to a more figurative style in the 1950s, where the serpent’s head was embellished with ruby, emerald or diamond eyes.

    In the 60s, the snake’s alluring scales were articulated with gemstones and coloured enamels.

    Over the decades, it has continued to metamorphosize; as a serpent sheds its skin, new interpretations are revealed in captivating designs, exquisite gems and creative craftsmanship.

    Left to right: Serpenti Pallini necklace and ring in rose gold with pavè diamonds and onyx. PHOTO: GREENPLASTICSOLDIERS

    The latest iteration?

    That of a sleek and stylised bejewelled viper – sensual, contemporary and utterly desirable.

    And you can be sure the Roman jeweller has still more to draw from this mesmerising creature.

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