The Business Times
JEWELLERY

Celebrating an ever-evolving icon

Bulgari’s Serpenti marks 75 years of creative transformation.

Corinne Kerk
Published Fri, Apr 14, 2023 · 01:07 PM

IT IS A SYMBOL OF medicine and healing, of renewal and of immortality.

The mythical serpent, which carries plenty of cultural connotations, has been Bulgari’s muse since 1948, when the first Serpenti creations debuted as jewellery-watches cleverly designed to wrap around the wrist.

Left to right: Serpenti earrings in rose gold with pavè diamonds and malachite; Serpenti Sautoir necklace in rose gold with malachite; Serpenti ring in rose gold with pavè diamonds and malachite. PHOTO: GREENPLASTICSOLDIERS

The ingenious Tubogas technique, which featured masterful goldsmithing to create flexible tubular bands of gold, gave way to a more figurative style in the 1950s, where the serpent’s head was embellished with ruby, emerald or diamond eyes.

In the 60s, the snake’s alluring scales were articulated with gemstones and coloured enamels.

Over the decades, it has continued to metamorphosize; as a serpent sheds its skin, new interpretations are revealed in captivating designs, exquisite gems and creative craftsmanship.

Left to right: Serpenti Pallini necklace and ring in rose gold with pavè diamonds and onyx.   PHOTO: GREENPLASTICSOLDIERS

The latest iteration?

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Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself.

That of a sleek and stylised bejewelled viper – sensual, contemporary and utterly desirable.

And you can be sure the Roman jeweller has still more to draw from this mesmerising creature.

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