Chanel's watchmaking reaches new heights

CHANEL, WHICH BRANCHED INTO watchmaking only in 1987, is rising fast in the world of horology. The J12 was a groundbreaker with its ceramic material, first in black and then in white.

The French Maison then turned to watch movements and its 2022 collection is a testament of its prowess in combining beauty and mechanical sophistication.

Here's a peek at its new novelties that showcase the next level of watchmaking.

J12 DIAMOND TOURBILLON CALIBER 5

Finally, a flying tourbillon it can call its own. At the heart of this new limited edition timepiece is Caliber 5, Chanel's first gravity-defying movement made in-house. The flying tourbillon mechanism, the 5th movement that the highfashion house's watch department produced in 35 years, is crowned by a solitaire diamond in the centre of the tourbillon cage. "This creation is a perfect illustration of the exceptional savoirfaire that enables our watchmakers to challenge the conventional codes and making the most daring creative dreams come true," says Chanel's watchmaking director Arnaud Chastaingt.

Caliber 5 was designed in Paris and developed and assembled in Chanel's watch factory in La Chau-deFonds, Switzerland. "The solitaire diamond follows the mechanism of the movement, giving time a rhythm that is precious and meditative, almost hypnotic," he adds.

The exposed mechanism displays a sophisticated finishing and is decorated with a lion's head - the signature of Chanel's in-house movements. Two versions of the J12 Diamond Tourbillon are offered: one in matte black ceramic and steel and one in glossy black ceramic in white gold, with the bezel adorned with baguettecut diamonds. Price: S$144,300 (matte black), S$259,800 (glossy black and diamonds). Limited to 55 pieces each.

CHANEL WANTED

The new watchmaking capsule collection features its eponymous logo stamped in different ways on the timepieces. The range includes two J12 Wanted De Chanel models. The first is a bold, glossy black ceramic J12 38mm piece, with the graphic elements on the dial and bezel replaced by the iconic 6 letters of CHANEL. The white letters stretch dramatically across a black dial and overlap onto the bezel. The second timepiece is the smaller J12 33M in white ceramic, which displays filigree CHANEL logos unfolding from the bezel to the dial in an artfully asymmetrical manner.

RED EDITION COLLECTION

Red is one of Chanel's 5 signature colours, along with white, black, beige and gold. This year, it's the signature hue of the fashion house's timepieces - fronted by the J12 X-Ray as well as Boy.Friend Skeleton (beige gold case) and Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray (crystal sapphire case). While the J12 shape is unchanged from the original watch launched in 2020, the red tone in the 2022 J12 X-Ray, a limited edition of 12 pieces, adds a new contrast to its look. The watch's uniqueness and sophistication are highlighted by rubies. The same movement, Caliber 3, that drove the earlier model remains but, thanks to the sapphire crystal, minus the bridges of the cogwheels. Similarly for the Boy- Friend Skeleton and Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray which first appeared in 2018, the focus on red provides a contrast to their appearances, making them emerge as "new Haute Horlogerie creations imbued with authority and inimitable flair". The watches are also powered by Caliber 3. Limited 10 pieces (Boy.Friend Skeleton), 100 pieces (Boy- Friend Skeleton X-Ray).

J12 CALIBER 12.2 33MM

Here's another "first'' in the 2022 collection: A self-winding movement in a J12 model with a smaller 33mm wide case. The movement, Caliber 12.2, is "a miniaturised motorisation in which each component has been adjusted to ensure a unique performance", says the brand. It's designed and developed exclusively for Chanel by Swiss movement manufacturer Kenissi, which is 20 per cent Chanel-owned. Caliber 12.2 was first introduced as a limited edition in the J12 Caliber 12.2 Edition 1 in 2021. With the latest launch, it's now a permanent feature in the J12 33mm model. The J12 model got its first automatic movement in 2021, when Chanel rolled out the J12 Caliber 12.1 in a large 38 mm case. Caliber 12.2 is endowed with an oscillating mass in the form of a perfect circle, the signature of Chanel's watchmaking. It is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, COSC, and has a power reserve of 50 hours. The watch comes in black and white ceramic.

Price: S$10,550

MADEMOISELLE J12

Appearing first in 2017, this model which features Chanel founder Gabrielle Chanel makes a comeback in three versions: Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa, Mademoiselle J12-XS and J12 Gabrielle Caliber 3.1. The first takes Coco Chanel, as she is better known, to La Pausa, her villa on the French Riviera. The new interpretation has Mademoiselle dressed in a Breton top and sailor pants, inspired by a photo taken in her garden there. And for the first time, the watch is fitted with the selfwinding Caliber 12.1 in an exclusive all-black version. In Mademoiselle J12-XS, Coco Chanel appears clinging mischievously to the watch case in the form of a figurine entwined in white gold and black lacquer, topped off with a two-tone straw hat adorned with a brilliant-cut diamond. J12 Gabrielle Caliber 3.1 is a tribute to the iconic outline of the Chanel founder placed on the dial, dressed in black and with her beloved pearls. She strikes a pose in a painting within a precious frame composed of a white gold bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds.