Crafting icons, the Tiffany way
How the hallowed American jeweller makes its most recognisable collections
TIFFANY & CO. HAS HAD a long history in making covetable jewellery. Since its 1837 founding in New York City, the American luxury jeweller has showcased mastery over artistry and craftsmanship. Fom jaw-dropping compositions in haute joaillerie to fine pieces for everyday wear, its legacy is rich, varied and full of joie de vivre.
After nearly two centuries, some collections have naturally stood out from the rest. It is perhaps no coincidence that these iconic pieces are also the ones that can easily take you from intense workdays to dinner parties at night.
Think about it: who can forget the oh-so-desirable shape of Lock, the strength and spirit of HardWear, the delightful possibilities of T or the delicate femininity of Knot?
Time after time, Tiffany appears to have an uncanny ability to conceive enthralling designs that go on to birth yet more desirable iterations.
Is it just the American jeweller’s New York state of mind, or are there yet more tales to tell? And how are these icons brought to life?
Join us, as we delve into the origin stories behind some of Tiffany’s most iconic creations.
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Lock
Love and the dedication to safeguarding all that we hold dear – from loved ones to cherished moments – is what Lock by Tiffany symbolises.
And the inspiration?
A brooch designed in 1883 for an adoring husband as a gift to his wife. Fashioned by Tiffany artisans in the shape of a padlock with a key, the gold and steel jewel is the first example of a padlock motif in The Tiffany Archives. It is engraved with the words “Fide et Amore”, which is Latin for “with faith and love”.
With that romantic piece as a starting point, today’s Lock stands out in particular for two of its features – a distinctive shape and an inventive clasp.
Lock’s innovative form mimics the shape and functionality of a padlock, with two U-shaped parts opening and closing seamlessly to become a bracelet that perfectly hugs the wrist. The piece is admired for its clasp, which is designed to swivel gracefully into place, just like a padlock. The pinnacle of craft and inventiveness, this particular component alone took a year-long collaboration between Tiffany’s design and engineering teams to perfect.
An artisan spends one day at his bench just to craft a Lock bangle. Pave diamonds are then expertly set by hand to maximise brilliance, before the piece is carefully hand-polished. The collection now extends to rings, earrings and pendants. And of course, its universal appeal across genders, people and love stories, makes Lock an even more covetable symbol of keeping safe that which is cherished.
HardWear
In 1960s New York, a strong and daring spirit prevailed as the city found itself in a state of flux. People celebrated freedom and individuality, and love took on new meanings.
And so, HardWear by Tiffany was designed to represent the transformative strength of that time; rooted in the unfettered pursuit of love. The collection took its cue from a single, 1960s bracelet found in The Tiffany Archives. The jewellery, which came with links, ball and lock, was re-imagined to feature a signature gauge link that is exclusive to Tiffany.
Each link is skilfully crafted to meet the jeweller’s exacting standards, hand-finished to create a luxurious and fluid feel, then joined together into an elegant, striking whole. Innovative and artfully engineered clasps are made to disappear into the pieces, while unique bolt closures on earrings create striking looks from both the front and back.
Some styles also feature pave diamond links, which are hand-set by Tiffany artisans to achieve the utmost brilliance. Today, the iconic gauge link graces a collection of bold designs, from rings, earrings and pendants to continuous chain wrap bracelets and necklaces.
Much like the city in which it was created, HardWear epitomises enduring resilience, and the precious gift of freedom.
T
If HardWear is all about resilience and freedom, T by Tiffany is very much focused on love’s endless potential.
The collection’s pure shape is inspired by the clean, intersecting lines of New York City, which founder Charles Lewis Tiffany saw as being a place of promise and possibilities. T captures this indomitable spirit of optimism and prospect of endless encounters.
Looking into its heritage, the letter “T” first appeared in a gold bracelet in Blue Book 1975-76, marking one of the first times a house monogram was used in fine jewellery design. This gave rise to the T collection’s motif, which continues to evolve to showcase Tiffany’s inventive craftsmanship.
Creating T’s clean, graphic lines is an exercise in precision and refinement. Each 90-degree angle is formed by Tiffany’s master craftspeople in a swift, exacting motion. The pieces are then hand-polished to achieve the ultimate shine and bring their sleek lines to life.
T itself has spawned sub-collections including T Wire and T Smile, with each being a distinctive interpretation of the letter T, and crafted with utmost precision. A special, flexible design for T Wire bracelets allows them to wrap seamlessly around the wrist, while T Smile designs are whimsical, joyful interpretations of the beloved T motif.
For a striking silhouette, innovative clasps are seamlessly integrated into the designs and round brilliant diamonds are specifically hand-set in a honeycomb pattern to increase diamond presence and accentuate brilliance. Case in point is the mesmerising full pave T1 bracelet, each of which takes Tiffany’s artisans up to 16 hours to craft.
Knot
Feminine and romantic, Knot by Tiffany traces its beginnings to an archival bow crafted in 1889.
Intricate yet elegant, delicate yet strong, a bow is a symbol of life’s most enduring ties.
Likewise, Knot is an expression of love’s unwavering bonds and embodies meaningful connections between people, regardless of time, distance or circumstance.
Its signature design sees a band of gold splitting into two before being gracefully swept into a dainty, diamond-studded knot in a lively, three-dimensional form. Each bracelet features a hidden clasp that releases by pushing the edge of the knot motif downward, thereby liberating the bracelet and mirroring the untying of a bow.
While some pieces feature multi-row diamond settings in a honeycomb pattern to reduce visible metal and maximise brilliance, others come in a fishtail setting with slightly angled prongs to elevate the gems and create a soft look.
As with the other iconic collections, Knot shows how Tiffany’s mastery of innovative design and fine craftsmanship brings its strong, creative spirit to the fore.
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