Diamonds are forever

WITH ALL EYES ON ROLEX'S iconic tool watches, its gem-set models tend to be overlooked. But when the brand took the cover ofi its latest collections in March, it was hard to miss the updated Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 and Oyster Perpetual Lady Datejust - literally dripping with dazzling diamonds.

Rolex's gem-setting mastery hasn't quite been the talking point of the brand that it deserves to be. Just take a look at the completely seamless gradient on the rainbowbezel Daytonas or the diamond-and-ruby paved dial on the ''presidential'' Day-Date, and there's no denying the level of quality and clarity of a gem-set timepiece.

That is set to change as bling timepieces become a growing acquisition of jewellery-obsessed celebrities. Even men are overcoming their masculine hangups about wearing what's essentially turbo-charged jewellery.

Perhaps it's also an extension of the clamour for Rolex's iconic models. The demand for Rolex watches clad in precious stones, both new and at auction, spiked in 2018 when the brand rolled out a rainbow-bezel rose gold Daytona model. The waiting lists for Rolex's gem-set timepieces are stretching into years - and it would take a major client to secure one of these watches, which are priced 10 times higher or more than the tool pieces.

Demand isn't the only factor for the long wait. The limited nature of the watches is as much a practical consideration as anything else - there are only so many precious stones in the world and only so many watch brands that have the gemologists and gem-setters to expertly set the stones on timepieces.

Rolex's expertise in gem-set timepieces continues to be displayed in its latest introductions. The new colourful Day-Date 36 comes in a 36 mm wide 18 carat yellow, white or rose (Everose) gold case. The watches feature hour markers and polished alligator straps in matching colours: coral on the yellow gold model; turquoise on the white gold version; and burgundy on the rose gold timepiece.

Each watch is decorated with a total of 817 diamonds. More than half - 450 - of the diamonds adorning the gold dial have matching colour index markers and enamel Roman numerals (coral-coloured on the yellow gold watch; turquoise on the white gold version; and burgundy on the rose gold watch).

The lugs, lug cap and case sides are covered with 254 brilliant-cut diamonds, while the bezel is decked with 52 of the same-cut precious stones. Another 61 brilliant-cut diamonds are found on the 18 carat gold folding clasp of the strap.

The Oyster case, introduced in 1926, is the first waterproof automatic wristwatch case, and the Day-Date is the first calendar wristwatch to indicate the date as well as the day. Launched in 1956, the Day-Date is also known as the ''president's watch'' because it's been worn by the world's political figures, directors and visionaries.

The new gem-set Day Date 36 is powered by an automatic movement - Calibre 3255 - which is resistant to shocks and magnetic fields and has an extended power reserve of 70 hours. Rolled out in 2015, Calibre 3255 has been fitted to the Day-Date model since 2019.

Like all Rolex watches, the Day Date 36 also carries the Superlative Chronometer certification - a guarantee of superior performance with a precision rate of -2/+2 seconds per day.

Rounding up the new gem-set timepieces is a 28mm Rolex Lady-Datejust. Aimed at a slender wrist, the watch is available either in 18k yellow or 18k white gold. The models practically drip with 1,089 diamonds encrusted in the watch, from the case to the bracelet; the president bracelet alone is set with 596 brilliant-cut diamonds.

The fully diamond-paved gold dial is hand-set with 291 diamonds and features black PVD coating on the gold Roman numerals. Running on Rolex's Calibre 2236 that was released in 2014, the movement is fitted with a Syloxi silicon hairspring which is up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.