An enchanting Christmas in Prague
There’s no better time to experience the charms of this ancient city than during the festive season
IT FEELS A LOT LIKE Christmas in Prague. From its cobblestone streets to the historic town squares, the city welcomes you in a way that’s intimate and authentic. There are no tacky Santas, reindeer, or other overly commercialised Yuletide tropes here – just a warm, fuzzy feeling that fills you with the spirit of the season.
When the temperature dips and the air is crisp, wandering around the capital of the Czech Republic is a sublime experience. Its Baroque buildings are illuminated with a golden glow – a beautiful winter backdrop.
At the heart of the festivities is the Old Town Square (Staromestske namesti). Here, the famed Christmas market is complete with a sparkling centrepiece: Prague’s tallest Christmas tree, festooned with shimmering stars and fairy lights.
With more than 100 stalls to explore, the market may be a little overwhelming. Not to worry – just let the irresistible aroma of cinnamon and roasted chestnuts guide you through the maze.
One of the must-have treats is trdelnik – a hollow cake that resembles a chimney. The sweet pastry dough is wrapped around long metal rods and then turned over a blazing charcoal spit. When browned, the pastry is dusted with sugar or rolled in crushed nuts. For extra indulgence, opt for the Nutella-filled version.
There are also massive griddles sizzling with the ubiquitous Czech sausage (klobasa). Pair these smoky pork sausages with mulled wine (svarak) or warm apple wine.
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Food aside, the locals take their handmade Christmas ornaments seriously. Several wooden stands offer beautifully crafted hand-painted glass baubles and Advent wreaths that make great souvenirs.
As you eat and shop, the Church of Our Lady before Tyn stands majestically in the background. The Gothic cathedral, built between the 14th and 16th centuries, displays a remarkable collection of Gothic, Renaissance and Early Baroque works. The organ, which dates back to 1673 and is the oldest in Prague, plays an important role during the Advent season, when Christmas and classical concerts are held here.
Nearby, the Old Town Hall’s facade boasts the famous Astronomical Clock. Known as the Orloj, the medieval timepiece looks straight out of a fairy tale. First installed in 1410, it is the world’s third-oldest astronomical clock as well as the oldest one that still works.
Every hour when it chimes, figures of the 12 Apostles appear in a “procession” in the windows above the clock. Look closely for a skeleton that appears to ring the bell. According to legend, master clockmaker Jan Ruze (also known as Hanus) was blinded by councilmen to prevent him from creating a copy of the timepiece.
During the day, a stroll along the cobblestone streets will lead you to charming spots such as Pernikovy Panacek, a quaint gingerbread shop with a pastel pink exterior. Inside, you will find all manner of confectionery iced with sugar. Watch the bakers skilfully roll and cut out the gingerbread folk.
There’s a host of other cookies partnered with jam, nuts and chocolate, too. Pick as many as you want and have them weighed at the counter.
When in Prague, make time to soak up the unique atmosphere at the legendary cafes, especially Cafe Louvre. Founded in 1902, this historic establishment was once frequented by luminaries such as Albert Einstein. When working at the Prague German University, the theoretical physicist was a regular customer.
Order classic Czech dishes such as beef goulash, which comes with tender chunks of meat braised in a rich, spiced gravy with floury bread dumplings. Round off your meal with warm apple strudel or Sacher cake with whipped cream. Although the cafe is busy throughout the day, the service staff is efficient and friendly.
Surprisingly, Prague is also home to a good number of Vietnamese restaurants. The city happens to have the third-largest Vietnamese diaspora in Europe, after Germany and France.
Swing by Muc Dong, just a few minutes’ walk from Charles Bridge. Slurp up some belly-warming beef pho or bun cha – rice noodles with char-grilled pork – and wash it down with beer or potent Vietnamese coffee.
Iconic historic spots
Known as one of Europe’s best-preserved cities, Prague was largely spared from bombings in both World Wars. Inscribed on the Unesco World Heritage list, this place is coined the “City of a Hundred Spires”, thanks to the many medieval and Baroque towers that dominate the skyline.
Landmarks include the Charles Bridge, which spans the Vltava river and was built in the 14th century during the city’s golden age under Emperor Charles IV. To capture the most beautiful photos, cross the bridge at dawn or dusk, when it’s bathed in the soft glow of gas lamps.
Bookended by a pair of fortified towers, the structure is about twice the length of London Bridge. It is also flanked by 30 statues and sculptures of saints, added between 1683 and 1928.
For the best panoramic views, ascend the steps of Prague Castle (in the Hradcany district) in the early morning before the crowds arrive. The largest castle complex in the world, it offers stunning vistas of the city’s spires and rooftops.
Adjacent to the castle is the magnificent St Vitus Cathedral – the largest and the most important church in Prague. Coronations of Czech kings and queens took place here in the days of yore.
But what’s truly spectacular are the stained-glass windows depicting Christ and the Apostles. Crafted over a hundred years – from 1865 to 1969 – the multiple panels of stained glass continue to impress with their vibrant colours.
A self-guided tour of the castle will reveal fascinating stories, including the infamous Defenestration of Prague that sparked the Thirty Years’ War. In 1618, several Catholic officials were thrown from the top-floor windows of Prague Castle by an angry mob of Bohemian Protestant activists resisting Habsburg authority.
However, Prague isn’t just about castles and cathedrals. The destination seamlessly blends history and contemporary culture, as seen in modern landmarks such as the famous Dancing House.
Designed by Croatian-Czech architect Vlado Milunic and the renowned Frank Gehry, this unique building is nicknamed “Ginger and Fred” – after the dancers Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire. Today, the building is home to a restaurant, hotel, gallery, and a terrace that overlooks the city below.
Even with its sprawl of winding streets, Prague is quite easy to navigate. You can clock your daily steps in this walkable city. But the many trams trundling along the main streets are an option, too.
If you have the time, check out the vintage tram 42 – its circular route goes through Prague’s historic centre. As it’s a hop-on, hop-off tram that goes in a loop, you can explore at your own pace (the ticket is valid for 24 hours).
Whether it’s history, culture, architecture or delicious nosh, there’s something for everyone in this quaint destination.
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