Escape to Margaret River’s quiet luxury
Slow down in Australia’s south-western wine region, where river canoes, clifftop views and small-batch vintages await
FEELING THE HEAT OF THE sun on your face as you follow the flow of Margaret River on a canoe, your mind drifts as you slowly disconnect from the rest of the world.
You’re in one of Australia’s best-known wine regions, but today you’re discovering its other aspects – one of them being that the river in the name is a real one.
Paddling this narrow boat is just one of the offbeat activities included when you book a tour by The Margaret River Discovery Co, which sets out to prove that there’s a lot more to do in this vast, unspoilt region than just choosing between Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Founded by local expert Sean Blocksidge, the company holds special national park permits and has restricted access arrangements to some of these locations. His is a small-group approach, taking you to places where you’re not rubbing shoulders with busloads of tourists.
Equipped with a four-wheel drive, local knowledge and plenty of colourful tales, Blocksidge describes his mission: “We’re not a standard 20-seater minivan trying to do 10 wineries and 100 free wine tastings. But we are going to look at geology and ecology, and relate that back to wine.”
A former wine industry professional, Blocksidge is equal parts raconteur and naturalist. He’s also a walking directory of all the different wineries based in Margaret River. “This is, hands down, the most consistent wine-producing region in the country, if not globally. ‘More Bordeaux than Bordeaux’ is what they say,” he quips.
A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU
Friday, 2 pm
Lifestyle
Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself.
Margaret River sits at the sweet spot where the Indian Ocean and the roaring Southern Ocean meet at Cape Leeuwin. The warm Leeuwin Current which passes through helps to moderate the climate, creating maritime conditions suitable for wine production.
Says Blocksidge: “It is never too hot nor too cold here. Summer doesn’t really go above 30 deg C, and winter never goes down to zero. So no heatwaves, no frosts, no floods.”
He adds: “If you see Margaret River bottles in the shops, it doesn’t matter who made it or which year it was made – it should be pretty bloody good.”
Back on the canoe, Blocksidge points out a bed of freshwater wild mussels clinging to rocks (sorry, food-obsessed Singaporeans, these filter feeders are not edible). He’s cruised down this waterway countless times, but still gets excited when he spies cockatoos perched on the eucalyptus trees.
A keen photographer, he tells you when to prep your iPhone or camera to capture the best spots along the way. After the river “adventure”, there’s a pit stop at an ancient waterfall, home to freshwater marrons (however, a recreational marron fishing licence is needed to catch them).
Still, you’re not left hungry. A light lunch and wine tasting await at Wilyabrup Valley’s Fraser Gallop Estate. Known for its single vineyard wines, this is one of the most talked-about wineries in the last five years, according to Blocksidge.
Fraser Gallop Estate’s topography and soil provide ideal conditions for growing Bordeaux and Burgundy grape varieties. Seated in the barrel room, you’ll taste the Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons which they are known for. If he’s on-site, winemaker Clive Otto, once crowned Australian Winemaker of the Year, will share insights into the upcoming vintage. (Winery tours close for the winter season and will reopen in October.)
The afternoon wraps up with a short but rewarding hike along the Cape to Cape Track (the Wilyabrup Cliffs section). This famous 135 km trail runs between the lighthouses at Cape Naturaliste in the north and Cape Leeuwin in the south near Augusta. Before reaching, expect some bumpy four-wheel drive action through the bush (Blocksidge’s tour has special government approval to traverse the off-road track).
It’s well worth the effort when you’re greeted by vistas of the Indian Ocean that stretch as far as the eye can see. Depending on the season, you may spot whales breaching offshore or dolphins darting beneath the waves. In spring, carpets of wild flowers brighten the trail.
Where to wine, dine and stay
Of course, drinking is the main reason to visit Margaret River, whose wine industry began almost 60 years ago. While small, family-owned estates form the backbone of its wine scene, the region is also home to world-class names.
Among them is Voyager Estate, which offers everything from excellent wines to gourmet dining rich in local produce. The certified organic winery offers guests an in-depth look into its farming and winemaking practices, starting with a guided walk through the picturesque vineyards.
Tastings follow, leading to a seasonal seven-course lunch in the restaurant, each matched with Voyager’s wines. Think Sauvignon Blanc Semillon paired with scallops brightened up with passion fruit and jalapeno, and Cabernet Sauvignon with local lamb, served with Chardonnay grapes and eggplant from the garden.
Other lunch options abound, including Masseria Restaurant by Cherubino, a family-owned vineyard and Italian dining venue overlooking manicured lawns, rose gardens and even a lake. Launched in December 2024, the restaurant closes in winter and reopens in September. Masseria serves casual Italian-Mediterranean cuisine paired with small-batch Cherubino wines.
Nearby is Amelia Park, with its vineyard views and relaxed refined dining. The menu is inspired by classic French bistros, featuring local Manjimup trout and Amelia Park lamb, prepared over a jarrah wood-fired grill.
Besides sustenance, Margaret River offers rest. Not in the form of large-chain hotels but beachfront resorts and boutique, personality-driven retreats.
Just five minutes’ drive away from Masseria is the Edge Luxury Villas – the region’s only overwater accommodation. With four adults-only villas set on a lake, the property blurs the line between indoors and outdoors with bi-fold doors, hammocks on private balconies, and floor-to-ceiling windows. The eco-conscious property is powered by solar and offers electric vehicle charging stations.
For a stunning beachfront stay, head to Smiths Beach Resort in Yallingup. A member of the Small Luxury Hotels collection, it’s positioned within Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park and overlooks the Indian Ocean. Not only is the beach right at its doorstep, it also has direct access to the Cape to Cape Track.
Either dine at the on-site Lamont’s restaurant, or order a box of fish and chips to enjoy by the beach while watching the sun set. Once it gets cold, head back to your self-contained apartment or villa, where you’ll wake up to the crashing of waves and the sun rising over the horizon. You might even spot a curious kangaroo or two on your way to breakfast.
The Margaret River region offers far more than fine wines. It’s perfect for a restorative escape – a chance to disconnect for a few days. From hidden gems and calming canoe rides to dramatic clifftop views, the spirit of discovery lingers long after the last sip.
Copyright SPH Media. All rights reserved.
