Feathered beauties: Tiffany’s new Bird on a Rock
The iconic design has been reimagined for high jewellery as well as two debut fine jewellery lines
A PAIR OF WINGS. TWO high jewellery suites. And a duet of fine jewellery collections.
They say good things come in pairs, and that is absolutely the case with Tiffany & Co’s Bird on a Rock – reinterpreted and released.
First created as a brooch in 1965 by Jean Schlumberger for the luxury American jeweller, the iconic design features a diamond-encrusted cockatoo, complete with a golden crest and beak, casually perched upon an oversized gemstone. A symbol of joy, optimism and possibility, it was and still is unapologetically extravagant, unexpectedly whimsical, and utterly desirable.
Celebrities from Lady Gaga to Florence Pugh and Michael B Jordan have worn it on the red carpet, making it one of Tiffany’s most identifiable designs.
But now, six decades since Schlumberger playfully put the feathered one on a large stone to, well, simply be itself, Tiffany has made its first major move to reimagine the emblematic design.
Through the visionary lens of chief artistic officer Nathalie Verdeille, new high jewellery sets and the first fine jewellery renditions of Bird on a Rock have been unveiled – reconceptualised in figural or abstract ways, but always anchored in the original’s distinctive wing motif.
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To discover them, prepare to fold your wings and dive right in.
High jewellery with a nod to the past
Like the great Schlumberger, Verdeille took pains to carefully study birds, their stances, feathers and wing structures to reproduce their animated forms in jewellery.
Two truly exceptional high jewellery suites emerged. The first is crafted around coloured stones and, in particular, tanzanites – a Tiffany “legacy gemstone” that the jeweller introduced in 1968.
The vibrant blue of the tanzanite is the beguiling focal point in a set comprising a spectacular necklace, bracelet and earrings. In each piece, birds take flight as they carry the gemstone, one imagines, to magical, faraway lands.
The other high jewellery set stars the turquoise – a gemstone that’s very much part of Tiffany’s design heritage and which Schlumberger also used in high jewellery with surprising contrasts.
The heart of the turquoise suite is a magnificent lariat necklace of turquoise beads, interspersed with gold and diamond feathers. A diamond bird appears to grasp strands of cabochon turquoise, culminating in an impressive turquoise drop. The set also comes with a pendant, brooch and ring.
Incidentally, the bluish green hue of turquoise is said to have inspired the jeweller’s founder, Charles Lewis Tiffany, to create the house’s iconic robin’s egg Blue Box.
Fine jewellery with an eye on the future
Sophistication and artistry that breaks new ground are what the Bird on a Rock by Tiffany fine jewellery collection is all about. While both debut lines celebrate nature’s uniqueness and asymmetry – qualities that deeply inspired Schlumberger – they feature two distinct takes on the legendary avian.
In one, bird motifs in their naturalistic forms fly alone or in pairs. Beautifully crafted as if they are high jewellery pieces, they feature fine, intricate texturing and multiple setting techniques – up to three in a single piece – so an elaborate play of light can enliven and further invigorate the animals.
The figural birds – fashioned in platinum and 18k gold with vivid gemstones – seem to flutter ever so softly to land gently on the wearer.
Meanwhile, the abstract approach taken for the other line – Bird on a Rock by Tiffany Wings – distils the wing motif into a reflection of the quintessential nature of flying. Here, the graceful movement and intricate layering of plumage are captured in sculpted, symbolic forms that twist and unfurl – a true feat of technical precision and artistry.
Further, select designs feature diamonds in hidden settings, as if they are afloat in the air. The pieces are also designed to stack, with the scalloped edges of one perfectly nestling against the feather-shaped silhouette of the other.
In a particularly clever design, a pair of earrings transforms into four different looks – from dainty studs to eye-catching drop earrings.
Exquisite craftsmanship in every piece
The superb craftsmanship that Tiffany – long recognised as “The Diamond Kings” – is known for is particularly salient in the new Bird on a Rock collections.
For starters, its artisans have used three advanced setting techniques to mimic the texture and iridescence of feathers. These include the classic flame setting – a feather technique developed for the Tiffany Celeste Blue Book collection – and a rail setting that gives the wings their floating lightness.
To create the plumage texture on the bird’s body, cut-downs were utilised in the high jewellery designs, while engraving into the metal further added intricate feather details.
There is also much to admire when it comes to the purity and layering of the wing motif – especially in the narrow, unadorned feather styles – which showcase Tiffany’s technical precision and inventive artistry.
Alongside yellow gold, the fine jewellery collection is crafted out of platinum – a more challenging material to work with than white gold. This is a nod to Schlumberger, who was known for using the precious material.
Also true to his legacy is the fact that no two birds are exactly alike. Every piece is hand-assembled and gemstone-matched to ensure uniqueness, texture and harmony.
With the Bird on the Rock free to take flight from its lofty perch, fans can finally wear versions of the famous icon without being anywhere near a red carpet. At the same time, the two high jewellery suites mean Schlumberger’s beloved design legacy grows more storied – as it will for decades to come.
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