IWC raises the bar on complications
The luxury brand’s new timepieces will impress even the most seasoned collector
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN IS WELL-KNOWN for its pioneering work in simplifying the perpetual calendar. So much so that watch fans are often surprised to learn the luxury Swiss watch brand also makes other complications.
That makes its newest range of complications a delight, especially as you dive deep into the meticulous detail in these amazing timepieces.
Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince
Here’s convincing proof that IWC doesn’t limit itself to perpetual calendar complications. This model – dedicated to the titular character in The Little Prince – flaunts a perpetual calendar side by side with a tourbillon, the mechanism that shields timekeeping from gravity’s disruptive disturbances.
IWC’s ode to the famous novel of love, loss and friendship that has been translated into more than 600 languages is not just in words. Flip the watch over, and the open case-back reveals a rotor shaped to depict the novel’s main character standing on his asteroid.
The watch was made in collaboration with the heirs of Antoine de Saint-Exupery, the author of The Little Prince. Other references include the moonphase display on the dial, where the Little Prince on his asteroid replaces the moon.
The dial, along with the case and strap, is blue, a colour that appears in all of IWC’s special editions honouring the iconic character. It stands out even more in this latest edition, which is limited to 100 pieces. The case is crafted from ceramic, making the watch IWC’s first Little Prince model in this hard heat- and corrosion-resistant material.
Despite the dominance of blue, there’s still some room for another colour on the watch, but only on its side and back: the case-back ring and crown, which glitter in 18-carat 5N gold, an alloy that is primarily gold with a rich, warm red colour.
Two complications in a watch require lots of space, so it’s unsurprising that the case comes in a 46.5 mm “L” size. Its largeness also accommodates a bigger dial, offering a clearer display of the two complications.
Unlike most other tourbillon timepieces, where the tourbillon is found at 6 o’clock, the gravity-defying mechanism here is located at 12 o’clock. It is housed in a cage that spins around its axis once every minute. The rotation is set against a dark background that makes the mechanism appear to be floating in space, hence the name “flying minute tourbillon”.
The date, month, moonphase and day of the week displayed by the crown-operated perpetual calendar are seen in three subdials at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.
Price: 100,000 Swiss francs (spot rate)
Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Le Petit Prince
The spotlight is on one complication in this smaller 43 mm Big Pilot model: the flying minute tourbillon. Unlike the previous Little Prince edition, the tourbillon in this model is found at 6 o’clock on the dial.
The rotation of a flying tourbillon may interfere with the proper setting of the time, but with a pull of the crown, a tourbillon stop in the watch is activated to bring the mechanism to a complete halt, freeing the time to be set with down-to-the-second accuracy.
The watch case is made from platinum, the rarest of all precious metals, which has an enduring whitish shine and brilliance. It frames a deep blue dial with an intricate sun-ray finish, another standout feature honouring the Little Prince.
Visible through the open-worked case-back is the rotor in the shape of the Little Prince on his asteroid. The in-house movement has a Pellaton winding system, which makes winding of the watch more efficient than most others in the market.
Price: S$117,000
Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph
The flying minute tourbillon joins the retrograde display and flyback chronograph to appear in this new Portugieser watch.
Planted on the dial at 9 o’clock, the retrograde display features a small hand that points to the current date on an arch-shaped scale that ranges from the 1st to 31st. After reaching the end of the month, the hand snaps back to the start.
With the flyback chronograph, the chronograph function can be restarted very rapidly at the push of a button, even while it’s still running. The elapsed hours and minutes are displayed in a combined totaliser at 12 o’clock.
The three complications are packed into a mid-sized 43.5 mm case of 18-carat Armor gold, an alloy harder than conventional gold. The dial appears black, but the colour is actually obsidian – one of the signature colours in the Portugieser collection introduced in 2024.
The obsidian-coloured dial is crafted in a complex process, including the application of 15 layers of transparent lacquer – reflecting the eternal cycle of day and night and the constant flow of time.
Price: 130,000 Swiss francs (spot rate)
Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 In Stainless Steel
Two famous figures in the watchmaking world come together in this model: Kurt Klaus, who developed the crown-operated perpetual calendar in 1985, and Gerald Genta, the inspiration for the watch’s design.
Klaus, of course, is IWC’s former chief watchmaker. Genta is best known as the designer of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus.
This model is also the first in IWC’s Ingenieur line to showcase Klaus’ perpetual calendar in a stainless steel case. Its display of the date, month and perpetual moonphase, as well as the day of the week, is made on a highly complex dial with “grid” structure and three counters.
Wrapped in full steel including the bracelet, the 41 mm automatic timepiece flaunts a shine reflected from its elaborately satin-finished and polished surfaces. The characteristic bezel – Genta’s hallmark design – is secured to the case by five functional screws.
Price: S$52,600
Decoding Asia newsletter: your guide to navigating Asia in a new global order. Sign up here to get Decoding Asia newsletter. Delivered to your inbox. Free.
Copyright SPH Media. All rights reserved.
