Louis Vuitton debuts at LVMH Watch Week
At the major watch fair in New York and Paris in January, the luxury brand unveiled its latest creations including the Tambour Taiko Spin Time collection
Tambour Taiko Spin Time
As frequent travellers in the early-noughts, Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini were always fascinated with airport flap displays – those large boards constantly being updated with the latest flight information. But unlike fellow jetsetters who barely gave them a second look, the watchmaking duo were so inspired by the flap display’s mechanics that they created the Tambour Spin Time, a three-dimensional reinterpretation of the traditional jumping hours complication.
The complicated watch with 3D jumping cubes display was so unlike any in the market that the talented pair had to develop an entirely new movement for it. Unveiled in 2009, it was the first movement that La Fabrique Temps – a specialist in complicated movements that Navas and Barbasini founded – made for Louis Vuitton. By doing so, it launched the French fashion giant into the world of high watchmaking. La Fabrique Temps was “integrated” into Louis Vuitton in 2011.
Sixteen years on, the Tambour Spin Time has spun off the Tambour Taiko Spin Time. While still centred on the Spin Time avant-garde time display, and housed in the drum-shaped case that is identified with a Tambour watch, the six limited edition models are powered by new movements developed from the ground up by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
The new models include a 42.5 mm wide flying tourbillon, which flaunts a tourbillon cage in the shape of a Louis Vuitton Monogram flower. The Tambour Taiko Time Air Tourbillon also features the floating display of the Tambour Taiko Spin Time Air, another new 42.5 mm model where the cubes seem to levitate within the case, with the movement suspended in the middle.
There is also a jewelled version of the Spin Time Air, such as the Tambour Taiko Spin Time. The latter, in a smaller 39.5 mm case, is the most versatile of the collection. It has a sporty look and is paired with a dial that frames the cubes of the jumping hours to create a clean, legible display.
In turn, the Tambour Taiko Spin Time Air Antipode combines the jumping hours with a world-time complication indicating time across 24 time zones. World time is indicated by the 12 reworked cubes of the Spin Time mechanism encircling the world map disc, with each cube displaying the time of two cities.
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While Taiko Spin Time has a solid case back, the rest of the models sport a display back revealing an in-house movement. All six new models come in 18 karat white gold with dials, including the cubes, dressed in dolphin grey.
Price: Taiko Spin Time S$120,000 and S$218,000 (with jewels); Taiko Spin Air S$135,000 and S$218,000 (jewels); Taiko Spin Time Antipode S$165,000; Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon S$259,000
Tambour Convergence
In a petite 37 mm pink gold or platinum case with satin-finished sides, the Convergence reflects the coming together of Louis Vuitton’s in-house mastery of movement design, case-making and rare handcraft.
The hand-polished time-only watch is given its name because there is also a convergence of the movement and case. Two sculpted windows on the precious plate framing the time display show the hours and minutes, their curved forms recalling the interior details of Louis Vuitton’s family home in Asnieres. In between them is a gold or platinum lozenge marker indicating the time.
The platinum model, featuring hours and minutes discs in brushed silver finish with blue numerals, is decorated with 795 diamonds on the precious plate.
At the heart of the Tambour Convergence beats a new in-house automatic movement, the calibre LFT MA01.01, which has a power reserve of 45 hours.
Price: S$49,000 and S$89,000 (platinum and diamonds)
Tambour Ceramic
The first Tambour watch, rolled out in 2002, was given a major makeover in 2023, bringing its casual elegance up-to-date. While the drum-shaped case remains the distinctive feature of this time-only watch, it has been slimmed down to flaunt a sleek look. A new micro-rotor movement with outstanding finishes now powers the timepiece, while the non-metallic strap has been replaced by an integrated bracelet.
The latest refinement produces a Tambour model in full brown ceramic and rose gold, including the bracelet, with a satin finish. Durable and scratch-resistant, the light ceramic comes in many colours. Brown is more challenging to achieve – especially in the signature shade of the Louis Vuitton trunk. Brown has also been the trademark hue of the Tambour watch dial since 2002.
Price: S$99,500
Tambour High End
Louis Vuitton’s trademark glamour is on full display in the Tambour collection, with two new 40 mm timepieces in precious metals and bedecked in fine jewellery.
One watch shines in 18 karat yellow gold, decorated with saffron-coloured sapphires and an onyx dial – a first for the Tambour line. The indices, decorated with baguette-cut sapphires, are inspired by the “Vuittonite” trunk from 1911. The watch is a limited edition of 30 pieces.
The second is in platinum – also a first in the Tambour collection – and sparkles with sapphires and rubies in rainbow colours on its bezel and indices, set against a silver opaline dial. The watch is limited to 50 pieces.
Price: S$172,000 (yellow gold), S$199,000 (platinum)
Louis Vuitton X Kari Voutilainen LVKV02 GMR 6
A two-time-zone watch, the LVKV02 is the second collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Kari Voutilainen. The travel timepiece is based on the design of the latest Escale, a Louis Vuitton model that reflects the brand’s rich heritage in the art of travel and trunk making.
Crafted from pure tantalum – a rare silver-grey metal highly resistant to corrosion – it features a 40.5 mm case which is satin-finished by hand to enhance the metal’s natural radiance, creating a striking contrast with the polished platinum parts. The encased gold dial is a masterpiece that’s painted, decorated and engraved by hand – an intricate work in 28 different colours.
The hour circle on the dial brings to mind ancient stained-glass windows in rainbow colours. The second time zone sub-dial at 6 o’clock also features a day/night indicator, depicted with sun and moon imagery in Louis Vuitton’s iconic saffron and blue hues. The sun/moon pattern is inspired by the brand’s famed Monogram flower.
The artistry extends to the movement beneath the dial. A new hand-winding mechanism, the movement is a work of masterful mechanical engineering. Remarkably, it has two escapement wheels that improve efficiency and increase the power reserve to 65 hours.
The LVKV02 is not just a piece of art, but a reliable travel companion. This limited edition of five pieces comes with a grey fabric or alligator strap and is presented in a bespoke Louis Vuitton travel trunk, meticulously crafted using traditional methods.
Price: S$750,000
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