Of lucky charms, roses and rectangles

BACK IN 1999, THE HOUSE of Dior hired Victoire de Castellane and handed her the huge responsibility of developing and launching a jewellery line.

And boy has she delivered.

The lady with an affection for colour, whimsy and surrealism went about her business with boldness and flourish. Her imagination and sense of wonder have flowed freely through Dior Fine Jewellery, whose designs continue to enthral with every new iteration.

Take for instance, the Rose des Vents collection, which portrays founder Christian Dior’s lucky charm, the star and his favourite flower, the rose, in the shape of a wind rose. Since its debut in 2015, fascinating new models have followed, each one building on the design language of its predecessor, but always true to its original nautical references.

The latest version is no less clever. In it, de Castellane takes inspiration from the emblematic Dior Tribales earrings to create exceptional pieces that bring together a compass rose disc accompanied by a removable and reversible pendant composed of ornamental stones or pavé diamonds. The length of the earring is adaptable and each one may be paired with other single earrings from the collection.

If Rose des Vents conjures up seafaring adventures, La Rose Dior is very much rooted on land. With this collection, de Castellane pays homage to the queen of flowers, the rose, but not necessarily in a literal way.

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Its Bois de Rose bracelets draw on the curves and thorns of a rose stem to create abstract bangles with barbs of gold and diamonds. Dare we say it – with exquisite “stems” like these, who needs actual roses?

From circles and stars, roses and curves, de Castellane moves to a completely different aesthetic with Gem Dior, which was first launched in 2021. In this collection, geometric motifs rule – with little rectangles lined up in an irregular fashion. This genius idea gives what is otherwise a clean, simple pattern an unexpected structure and a rhythm of its own.

How very de Castellane indeed.