The new Bordeaux beckons
What to do, eat, drink, and buy in France’s wine country
ALMOST EVERYTHING HAS A vinous link in Bordeaux – from food and art to history and architecture. This capital of Gironde in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, south-western France, is known as the world’s wine capital – a gateway to the most famous vineyards on earth.
Today, Bordeaux is dubbed a “smart tourism” destination, after having won the title of European Capital of Smart Tourism 2022. Now, grand old monuments co-exist with modern and alternative museums and new neighbourhoods. Here are some recommended spots to visit in this charming city.
Artistic experience
The iconic Cité du Vin is a museum dedicated to the cultural heritage of wine. The building’s evocative design complements the city’s grand architectural heritage.
Each spring, the Foundation for wine culture and civilisations, which manages and develops the museum, works with a guest curator to organise a major art exhibition with a specific wine-related theme. This year, “Picasso, the Effervescence of Shapes” is held from Apri till Aug 28. The engaging exhibition explores wine and popular spirits in the work of Pablo Picasso, through a wide variety of media, from paintings and drawings to ceramics, sculptures and films. This original exhibition sheds new light on Picasso’s works and reveals the creativity that inspired him throughout his life. Historian and art critic Stéphane Guégan curated more than 80 works by the renowned artist.
Eco-travellers can explore the contemporary Darwin Ecosystem – a mini eco- and socially-responsible village of sorts – located on Bordeaux’s right bank in the Bastide district. This former military barracks is now a “life-sized experiment” for urban renovation and transition. Here, you can find a skatepark sharing space with an open-air gallery for graffiti artists. Food-wise, this convivial place houses the largest organic bistro-dining hall in Europe, a honey farm, wine cellar, chocolate maker and coffee bean roasting workshop, among others.
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Bordeaux’s vantage points
Have lunch at the elegant Le 7 perched on the 7th floor of La Cité du Vin which affords some of the best panoramic views of Bordeaux. The modern menu here focuses on seasonal regional produce.
For pre-dinner drinks and another angle of the city, head to Night Beach on the rooftop terrace of InterContinental Bordeaux - Le Grand Hotel. This trendy spot boasts a superb 360-degree view of the surroundings.
Affordable to upscale meals
For something elegant, book a table at Gordon Ramsay’s two-Michelin-starred Le Pressoir d’Argent, also at InterContinental Bordeaux - Le Grand Hotel. The menu pays homage to the Aquitaine region. About 95 per cent of the ingredients are locally sourced, such as foie gras from the Landes region, and organically-grown vegetables from the Basque country.
If you’re hankering for something more casual, there are plenty of bistros and brasseries in town. For superb steak frites, visit L’entrecote, whose recipe has been the same since 1959. You’ll get a substantial slab of trimmed ribeye sizzling in butter, and accompanied by a mountain of fries. It doesn’t take reservations, so get there early and join the fast-moving queue; it’s worth the effort.
Edible gifts
Caneles are synonymous with Bordeaux, and Baillardran is a good one to try. Founded in 1988 by Philippe Baillardran, this brand rolls out freshly baked caneles fused with rum or vanilla.
Before your journey is over, swing by L’intendant just next to InterContinental Bordeaux to pick up some fine wines. This unique wine shop with a spiral design belongs to Duclot, a major wine merchant in Bordeaux founded in 1886. It stocks several million bottles purchased directly from the various chateaux and are kept in its vast cellars. Duclot also owns Petrus in Pomerol. Lugging back your vinous loot, however, is another story.
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