The Onitsuka: Classic craft meets contemporary cool
The brand’s creations breathe new life into familiar silhouettes
WHEN KIHACHIRO ONITSUKA FOUNDED HIS shoe company in 1949, he set out on a mission to reinvigorate Japan’s post-war youth through design. Over the next seven decades, Onitsuka Tiger would grow to do way more, with its creations landing in the wardrobes of icons around the world.
Onitsuka’s founding philosophy has evolved into a broader design language rooted in precision, utility and innovation. And as much as Onitsuka Tiger has become synonymous with sporting heritage and sneakers, the brand hasn’t stopped evolving.
Most emblematic of this constant growth is its luxury leather product line, The Onitsuka. Launched in 2019, the collection has gained a following for its sharp-yet-edgy vibe. It’s also been introduced in a number of markets, including Singapore, with the opening of a boutique at ION Orchard in 2023.
Updating iconic styles
The Onitsuka combines the practical, understated character of Japanese design with detailed craftsmanship and contemporary aesthetics. With this approach, Onitsuka Tiger has created a series of footwear with both the formal flair of dress shoes and the casual cool of everyday sneakers.
A key element of the line’s philosophy is its focus on proportions. While traditional dress shoes tend to skew towards the slimmer end of the spectrum, The Onitsuka’s designs adopt bolder shapes with more visual substance, while maintaining an overall smart look.
Take, for instance, the Bit Loafer, which is given new life with a slightly wider, more voluminous silhouette. The versatile cut makes this shoe a great transition piece, working equally well with a suit or a plain white tee and jeans.
Moccasin stitching and a horse-bit across the top – nods to traditional leather-craft – add to the look. A version of the loafer from the brand’s collection includes a panel of tweed across the upper; made in Japan’s Iwate prefecture with threads of different materials and thicknesses, the fabric’s three-dimensional texture creates a pop of visual interest.
This tweed motif continues in other designs, such as the Brogue, which takes inspiration from the brand’s Emperor golf shoe introduced in 1970. The contrast between the leather and tweed panels is especially effective here, bringing emphasis to the perforated broguing that wraps around the shoe.
Dominating The Onitsuka’s offerings is a graphic colour scheme, which finely balances sleekness and sportiness. Charcoal black and white form a neutral base, while red accents add an eye-catching touch, from subtle slivers of midsole on the Blucher Lo for men, to entire heels on the Wedge-O for ladies.
High functionality, high craftsmanship
Despite their dressier look, The Onitsuka’s shoes don’t skimp on the technical side of things. Lightweight construction and ample cushioning ensure they can be worn for extended periods without fatigue, reflecting the brand’s roots in athletic footwear even as its designs move in a more refined direction.
With the Brogue, for instance, Onitsuka Tiger’s signature “shark-toothed” soles provide a solid grip with their thick rubber sponge and jagged edges. Also seen throughout the collection is the brand’s trademarked aGEL foam, which adds shock absorption, cushioning and, perhaps most importantly, comfort to the shoes.
Inner soles, meanwhile, are made with a combination of materials with different hardness levels, preventing arch sinking and wobbling heels.
Highlighting local craftsmanship is another focus of The Onitsuka; the collection is made entirely by Japanese artisans.
Every detail has been engineered to harmonise material, form and function; the majority of the designs are made with Kobe cattle leather from Himeji, a city in the Kansai region renowned for leather goods. The hide is supple, with a tight grain that takes a glowing polish.
Beyond shoes, The Onitsuka also features small leather goods and bags, all constructed with the same philosophy. Sharp lines and a pared-back aesthetic come alive with pops of colour, a high-polish finish, oversized silhouettes or even a combination of the three.
It’s this language of mixing – old and new, classic and edgy, pushing the envelope just the right amount – that gives The Onitsuka not only enough oomph to stand out, but also a way to continue its namesake’s mission: to seamlessly mesh timeless designs with traditional craftsmanship, comfort technology and Japanese precision.
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