Ritz-Carlton lights up the Bangkok skyline
Savour modern elegance and Thai heritage with sweeping views of greenery in the latest addition to the city’s buzzing hotel scene
BANGKOK. SHIMMERING LIGHTS IN THE distance. An unwittingly mesmerising sight formed by the most banal of activities – the unmoving headlamps of gridlocked vehicles caught in the city’s nightly traffic jams.
In hotel parlance, this, and the skyscrapers of Bangkok, make up a “stunning city view” – the sought-after scenery you pay a premium for, from the perch of your top-floor, deluxe accommodation.
But here we are, in our own sumptuous high-level lodging at the newly minted Ritz-Carlton Bangkok, and we look out to an even more marvellous view of – nothing.
Well, comparatively so. We can’t see the concrete jungle for the trees – a sprawling landscape of lush, unspoiled greenery you never thought could exist in central Bangkok.
The Ritz-Carlton Bangkok truly lucked out with its winning location, soaring above Lumphini Park from the colossal One Bangkok – itself a city within a city with its head-spinning complex of office towers, residences, and a labyrinthine retail mall. Its notably chuffed designers wasted no time in taking advantage of the ready-made biophilia – the former Suan Lum night bazaar now restored to its original green glory.
The outdoor terrace, flanking the hotel’s flagship restaurant Duet, is a literal sky garden with its manicured landscaping and cosy patio chairs. They look out to a jaw-dropping view of the park, the setting sun casting dramatic shadows over the glistening lake. In the early evenings, you might chance upon a charming traditional dance or musical performance by the hotel staff. There’s nothing slick about it, but it’s their earnestness and infectious joy that win your heart.
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The botanic theme continues at Duet itself, a fine-dining collaboration with Paris-based chef David Toutain. Its luxurious, conservatory-like dining room is the backdrop for cuisine that is quintessentially French, with an emphasis on delicate herbs locally sourced, while also giving a shout-out to Thai spices like Panang curry.
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The quietly opulent hotel interiors are a tasteful mix of contemporary elegance and Thai heritage that feels organic and never contrived. Installations by local artists seamlessly blend into the overall design, particularly the lobby “pool” of glass water lilies by Nathakorn Kanitvaranun – a modern rendition of Thailand’s ubiquitous lily ponds.
Everywhere you turn, there’s a design element or view to gawk at, or there’s something to eat. It’s hard to extricate yourself from the club lounge, with its 180-degree views and non-stop food. There’s breakfast, lunch, tea and evening cocktails set within a languid, living-room environment, but you’d be remiss if you didn’t check out Lily’s – where you’d need several days if you want to sit in every uniquely designed dining section.
Besides a sprawling sofa-filled section good for all-day coffee or afternoon tea, it has several dining sections done up in different design themes, and a not-to-be-missed dessert counter that looks like a standalone patisserie complete with ice cream and candy jars.
While the eateries feed your body, soothe your aches at Espa, which makes up for its lack of space with impeccably trained spa therapists, who personify the difference between effective therapeutic massages and perfunctory body rubs. Try to finagle your way into the spa suite, which is decked out like a luxurious villa you wouldn’t mind spending the rest of your stay in.
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Still, hardware is nothing if the software doesn’t match up. And Ritz-Carlton’s signature service is on full display with a concierge team ever ready to organise insider tours of the city. Enter Arthur, who takes time out to show us the heritage sights of Charoenkrung district, Talad Noi and the currently trendy Song Wat neighbourhood, with its myriad quirky bars and eateries.
While we would meander aimlessly if we were left to our own devices, Arthur deftly leads us through colourful alleys covered with art and murals, and into decrepit holes in the wall that reveal super hip cafes serving single origin coffee. And just for fun, we face off with an army of rubber duckies in a shop completely devoted to this bath toy.
The best part of navigating Bangkok’s hot dusty streets on foot? There’s a luxurious hotel limo waiting to pick you up at every corner.
For a brand that seems to be in every city you can think of, it’s hard to believe this is Ritz-Carlton’s first hotel in Bangkok. It may have taken a while, but the wait has been well worth it.
The writer was a guest of Ritz-Carlton Bangkok
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