ALL EYES WERE ON THE Rolex booth at Watches & Wonders 2024 as fans waited to see what the brand would unveil at the world’s biggest watch fair. And they weren’t disappointed: much-loved iconic models were given a refreshing update with new materials, colours and textures.

All of this reflects the watchmaker’s commitment to evolution while demonstrating uncompromising quality, down to the smallest details.

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

This is the first GMT-Master II in Oystersteel to sport a 24-hour graduated two-colour Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic. The insert was introduced to the GMT-Master II collection last year, but in a two-tone Oystersteel and 18-ct yellow gold model. Rolex says the muted colour contrast subtly evokes the contrast of day and night.

The Oystersteel GMT-Master II comes in two versions: one with an Oyster bracelet and the other with a Jubilee bracelet. Both are housed in a 40 mm case and powered by calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology. This movement enables the watch to not only display the hours, minutes and seconds, but also the date and an additional time zone in a 24-hour format.

Both models feature a black lacquer dial inscribed with “GMT-Master II”. The green echoes the triangle-tipped 24-hour hand, which is a strong element in the watch’s design. More than just showing an alternative time zone, the hand also points to another location that resonates with the wearer – “a reminder of the emotions that accompany the traveller”, Rolex says.

Oyster Perpetual Day-Date

The four new novelties in this collection showcase Rolex’s precise watchmaking skill and attention to even the smallest details – colours, materials, motifs, hour markers. Two of the novelties come in a 40 mm case, with one encased in 18-ct Everose gold and sporting a new “slate ombre” dial. Slate ombre is coloured in the middle and gradually fades to black towards the edge. Rolex says it is “a symphony of shade that is brought to life by a particularly precise manufacturing process”.

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The second new Day-Date 40 is in white gold and has a white mother-of-pearl dial, a first for the model.

The other two Day-Date novelties feature a smaller 36 mm case – one in 18-ct yellow gold and with a white lacquer dial. The other is in 18-ct Everose gold with a blue-green dial and is new to the collection. The colour is illuminated by a bezel decked with 60 trapeze-cut diamonds, which is also new to the model.

Perpetual 1908

Rolled out just last year, this dress watch – which was inspired by one of the first Rolex timepieces to be fitted with the Perpetual rotor – has already been upgraded to the brand’s most prestigious category. It is now also bestowed with a 39 mm 950 platinum case and an ice blue dial.

The dial displays a guilloche rice-grain motif, a rosette-like design which is distinctive for its three-dimensional, repeating geometric pattern that extends across the surface. The filet saute with a crimped pattern surrounding the minute track is also guilloche.

Rolex says that in unveiling a dial created by guillochage, or engine turning – a technique that uses a turning tool to sculpt a pattern into a surface – the brand is fulfilling what it has set out for the Perpetual collection to be: A tribute to the classic art of watchmaking, infused with Rolex’s know-how and creativity.

The dial of the new 1908 has the same Arabic numerals (three, nine and 12), faceted hour markers and hands as the 18-ct gold models. The watch is mounted on a brown alligator leather strap fitted with a Dualclasp, a double folding clasp. 

Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea

A bright watch for the dark abyss. The Rolex Deepsea is presented in 18-ct yellow gold for the first time. The new timepiece also sports a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom bezel insert in blue ceramic as well as a blue lacquer dial, stamped with the name “DEEPSEA” in yellow.

The model also incorporates a new technical innovation: the high-performance compression ring within its Ringlock system is made of ceramic. The work of precision engineering, this Cerachrom compression ring is the product of a pioneering manufacturing process. 

Made of blue ceramic, the ring integrates high-tech material in a new way. Its anti-deformation properties further contribute to the watch’s waterproofness.

Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Two new precious interpretations of the Cosmograph Daytona have been rolled out. One showcases a dial in white mother-of-pearl with chronograph counters in black mother-of-pearl, which is paired with an Oysterflex bracelet. The other version has the same colour combination but in reverse, and is worn with an Oyster bracelet. Both watches are housed in a 40 mm case crafted in 18-ct white gold and crowned with a bezel set with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds.

The Cosmograph runs on the calibre 4131, a cutting-edge movement. The movement’s bridges are decorated with Rolex Cotes de Geneve and a cut-out oscillating weight. 

Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller

For the first time, this 42 mm timepiece for global travellers has been paired with a Jubilee bracelet in precious metal. There are two versions. One is crafted in 18-ct Everose gold and has a slate dial. The other, in 18-ct yellow gold, features an intense white dial. The Jubilee bracelets are fitted with an Oysterclasp that traditionally comes with the Sky-Dweller. It also has ceramic inserts inside the links, like most Rolex bracelets made from precious materials.

The Sky-Dweller is powered by calibre 9002, an advanced movement that, besides the hours, minutes and seconds, also enables the watch to display the date and month as well as an additional time zone in a 24-hour format.