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Watches

Tudor goes old school

Look beyond the vintage vibes to uncover the innovations in this year’s novelties.

Dylan Tan
Published Fri, Jul 15, 2022 · 11:49 PM

Tudor Black Bay Pro

Tudor Black Bay Pro

If you like vintage watches, you will love the new Tudor Black Bay Pro because this GMT piece takes its design inspiration from another cult favourite by its sister brand – the Rolex Explorer II Ref 1655. You will see it straight away from the fixed satin-brushed bezel and orange 24-hour hand; and the watch even has classic old school proportions, measuring just 39 mm. 

But the Black Bay Pro actually pays tribute to the Oyster Prince model created by brand founder Hans Wilsdorf, who gave it to 30 explorers embarking on a British North Greenland Expedition to study Arctic ice exactly 70 years ago to test in extreme conditions. The rest, as they say, is history.

The COSC-certified Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function and 70-hour power reserve was also developed by Tudor for this model; and a choice of three bracelet designs – Jacquard fabric, hybrid rubber and leather, or riveted 316L steel – are available.

Even though the watch is part of the Black Bay collection, there are various design aspects that are totally new. These include the winding crown which has been entirely redesigned for maximum grip; the applied hour markers on the dial being made from monobloc luminous ceramic; and the rapid adjustment feature on the steel bracelet. Price: From S$5,090

Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G

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Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G Tudor

Using steel and gold together always evokes a touch of nostalgia and the two-tone Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G oozes plenty of retro vibes. On the internet, watch collectors have nicknamed it the Root Beer – a nod to the classic fizzy brown soda, as well as the similarly-hued Rolex GMT models.

A total of three time zones can be tracked, thanks to the rotating bezel with colours to represent day and night. There is one cool technical detail which will delight the most hardcore watch nerd: the date is connected to the local time hand so that when setting the time and passing midnight in retrograde, it instantly jumps to the previous day. Price: from S$5,970

Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G

Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G Tudor

Tudor introduced its first chronograph, the Oysterdate, in 1970. The watch was hard to miss because of its unique design: namely its bright colours, the pentagonal hour markers that were shaped like baseball home plates, the 45-minute counter and a date window at 6 o’clock.

You will find some of those aesthetic codes still present on the new Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G. There are four variations with various dial and strap options but regardless of which one you choose, the two-tone (black with gold counters, or champagne with black counters) combo gives the collection an instant retro look. Not only that, the COSC-certified self-winding Manufacture Calibre MT5813 features a column wheel and vertical clutch which follows in the purest tradition of sporting timepieces. Price: From S$8,270

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