Chongqing's charms

THE pagodas atop Jin Yun mountain try their best to motivate visitors.

Placards along the ascent beckon: "200 more steps to the summit". Our local guide boasts of the view, up top, over tranquil Bei Bei, a district north of Chongqing, while retiree residents from the 12-million-population city - drawn here for the much-needed oasis of calm - clamber past us gingerly.

But we plug on today, cramping calves and all, neither for the view nor for the potential shame in lagging behind geriatrics. Because the best reward is the one well-earned, the carrot on our stick, really, is the private hot spring soak that awaits upon return to our lodging for the trip, the Banyan Tree Chongqing Bei Bei.