Conservative Party: Bourgeois style is back

THEY WERE HAILED as this decade's fashion outlaws - turning out highly successful collections inspired by youth subcultures from skaters to rock n' roll. But that was then. This season, Hedi Slimane, Demna Gvasalia and Riccardo Tisci have outgrown their insurgent punk lifestyle in favour of the bourgeois and suburban.

As a term, 'bourgeoisie' is basically defined as the middle class, ''typically with reference to its perceived materialistic values or conventional attitudes'', according to the Oxford dictionary. Namely, one who exemplifies wealth and social status. But fashionwise, it became a dated concept thanks to Slimane and company who subverted bourgeois style and made 'ugly' cool.

While their change in mindset with their Fall/Winter collections is refreshing, it also seems surprising. Thanks to them, sweatpants have eased its way into the corporate world and streetwear is di rigueur for the technopreneur. Being anti-trendy is trendy, and fashion has been purposely promoting bad taste. Wear whatever you like - the weirder, the more unexpected, the better, and Demna Gvasalia's influence at Balenciaga and Vetements have largely impacted this strange fashion phenomenon.

Perhaps due to the world's political and economic instability, 'predictable' and 'safe' are the keywords designers are embracing this season. Gvasalia smartened up at Balenciaga with plenty of bourgeoisie- approved clothing like the buttonless cocoon coats and jackets as well as the minimalist pantsuits guaranteed to be a hit with both Gvasalia's male and female clientele.

But perhaps the one making the biggest headlines for bringing bourgeois back this season is Hedi Slimane of Celine. His second collection comprises super commercial and wearable modest kneelength skirts, culottes, wool capes, blouses, knotted silk scarves, glossy knee-length high-heeled boots, a ladylike shoulder bag and aviator sunglasses - all the attributes of an affluent Left Bank madame. And for the guys, not a sneaker in sight.

In fact, Pierre Hardy, who has been designing shoes at Hermès for 29 years, predicts the end of the road for the wildly popular sneaker. It was once seen as unpretentious and a symbol of fashion democracy, but as streetwear loses its shine, so too has the sneaker's relevance.

Riccardo Tisci was known as an advocate for outcasts during his tenure at Givenchy. But in his new role as creative director of Burberry, Tisci's focus is less punk, more prim and proper. For his Fall/Winter 2018 collection, he presented models elegantly styled in twinsets, wearing knee-length dresses while men were decked in tailored suits with classic English toggle coats.

Other designers are catching on, with a slew of creatively styled looks circulating everywhere on the Fall/Winter runways. How do you spot it? It's all about the bow blouses, neck scarves, belted trench coats, drop earrings, pleated skirts and cocktail jackets - an aesthetic seen predominantly at Dior, Victoria Beckham, Fendi and Valentino.

Some other highlights include the belted tweed and plaid wool pantsuits and coats at Clare Waight Keller's Givenchy; Chloé eschewed its usual offering of romantic billowy dresses in favour of smart denims and camel coats whileNicolas Ghesquière of Louis Vuitton showed why he's always ahead of the fashion curve.

While Slimane opted for a more retro statement, Ghesquière looked to the future, envisioning how the modern bourgeoisie would dress. Masculine tailoring with oversized shoulders are key as well as skinny ties. Of course in Vuitton's world they aren't just normal ties. Ghesquière took the brand's iconic century-old Damier checked pattern and printed it on skinny leather ties.

Fashion pundits are optimistic about this post streetwear shift, championing it as the new way to dress. In such tumultuous times, it's safe to say that the practical, chic bourgeois style is here to stay.