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Craft and precision

Audemars Piguet introduces a new material; Biver goes back to basics; Bell & Ross reaches for the sky

Dylan Tan
Published Fri, Sep 20, 2024 · 07:00 PM
    • Chroma forged technology is used in the new AP Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date.
    • Chroma forged technology is used in the new AP Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date. PHOTO: AUDEMARS PIGUET

    Audemars Piguet

    AUDEMARS Piguet has made a significant statement in the luxury watch industry by showcasing its innovative chroma forged technology (CFT) in the new Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date.

    This 43 mm timepiece marks the return of forged carbon, which the brand first used in 2007. Five years in the making, the new CFT allows for direct colouring of carbon fibres, resulting in a striking deep black material with vibrant blue luminescent accents, offering both aesthetic appeal and exceptional durability.

    Each case middle is unique, created through a labour-intensive method where coloured carbon pieces are meticulously layered by hand, ensuring that every watch has its own distinct motif.

    The non-porous material is not only lightweight but also resistant to humidity, heat and shocks, making it ideal for high-performance timepieces.

    The architectural openworked dial features electric blue highlights that enhance legibility while revealing the intricate mechanics within. A black ceramic bezel and titanium push-piece guards provide a striking contrast to the CFT case. The absence of a logo emphasises its modern aesthetic, allowing the craftsmanship to shine through.

    At its heart is the self-winding Calibre 4407 movement, which integrates advanced functions such as a flyback chronograph and a GMT feature, designed for user-friendly operation. The watch is mounted on a sporty blue rubber strap with interchangeable options, further emphasising its contemporary style.

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    At the heart of the Biver Automatique lies the brand new Calibre JCB-003, developed in collaboration with Dubois Depraz. PHOTO: BIVER

    Biver

    The Biver Automatique marks a significant milestone for the brand, as its first three-hand automatic watch.

    Featuring solid 18k white or rose gold dials housed in corresponding metal cases, the watch showcases an array of hand-applied finishes such as guilloche, anglage and black polishing. This creates depth and dimensionality, with a two-tone aesthetic.

    At the heart of the Automatique lies the brand new Calibre JCB-003, developed in collaboration with Dubois Depraz. The movement combines a simple three-hand time display with an automatic winding system using a 22k gold micro-rotor and hand-winding via the crown.

    Each year, Biver will produce limited quantities of Automatique timepieces with unique hard stone dials under its Atelier Series, blending technical mastery with visual poetry. The inaugural two models feature a platinum case with a black-sanded obsidian dial, and 18k rose gold case with a Pietersite dial.

    The BR-03 Horizon is not just a functional instrument but also a stylish statement for aviation enthusiasts and collectors alike. PHOTO: BELL & ROSS

    Bell & Ross

    The Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon translates a vital flight instrument – the artificial horizon – onto the wrist. Limited to just 999 pieces, this timepiece’s distinctive dial design represents the sky and earth with a blue upper half and a dark lower half, symbolising spatial orientation for pilots.

    Crafted from micro-blasted black ceramic, the 41 mm case is water-resistant up to 100 m and houses the automatic BR.CAL-327 movement. The watch’s intuitive readability is enhanced by large hands and a luminescent blue dial, ensuring clarity in low-light conditions.

    The design has an interchangeable strap system, allowing wearers to switch between a black rubber strap and an orange velcro option. With its aviation-inspired aesthetics and technical precision, the BR-03 Horizon is not just a functional instrument but also a stylish statement for aviation enthusiasts and collectors alike.

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