Crossing new culinary borders at Nouri

Ivan Brehm’s revamped restaurant shows off a sharpened focus and confidence in his food

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Jaime Ee

Published Thu, Aug 25, 2022 · 07:55 PM

Nouri's spread of snacks. PHOTO: Nouri
Nouri's revamped interiors feature crushed clay walls and Thai silk seat cushions. PHOTO: Nouri
Chef-owner Ivan Brehm PHOTO: Nouri
Snacks include silken cheese, sourdough bread, cherry tomato bon bon, artichoke salad and Shanklish cheese. PHOTO: Jaime Ee
Acaraje & Vatapa features thick spicy gravy and mixed seafood. PHOTO: Nouri
Raw and cooked carabinero prawn. PHOTO: Nouri
Narezushi is Nouri's interpretation of sushi. PHOTO: Nouri
Steamed turbot in its own broth, thickened with aioli. PHOTO: The Business Times
Dainty dumplings in spicy beef consomme in 'Barbarian's Head'. PHOTO: The Business Times
Chocolate fish ball pairs airy chocolate sorbet and candied ikan bilis. PHOTO: Nouri

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RESTAURANT REVAMP

Nouri 72 Amoy Street Singapore 069891 Tel: 9230-2477 Open for lunch and dinner Fri to Sun: 12pm to 3pm; 6pm to 12am. Dinner only Wed to Thurs.

IF chef Ivan Brehm could be someone else, it might be a food psychiatrist. He would look an existential Portuguese egg tart in the crust and say, “It’s your English custard roots that make you flaky.” A fastidious Japanese sushi’s inexplicable taste for fermented fish sauce would be explained as, “You get that from your Cambodian great-grandmother’s side.” And to a delicate Sichuan dumpling with anger issues, he would intone: “I see barbarians in your bloodline.” If you don’t believe it, he has the science to prove it, but it would be much more enjoyable to eat his research at the newly-revamped Nouri.

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