Crossing new culinary borders at Nouri

RESTAURANT REVAMP

Nouri 72 Amoy Street Singapore 069891 Tel: 9230-2477 Open for lunch and dinner Fri to Sun: 12pm to 3pm; 6pm to 12am. Dinner only Wed to Thurs.

IF chef Ivan Brehm could be someone else, it might be a food psychiatrist. He would look an existential Portuguese egg tart in the crust and say, “It’s your English custard roots that make you flaky.” A fastidious Japanese sushi’s inexplicable taste for fermented fish sauce would be explained as, “You get that from your Cambodian great-grandmother’s side.” And to a delicate Sichuan dumpling with anger issues, he would intone: “I see barbarians in your bloodline.” If you don’t believe it, he has the science to prove it, but it would be much more enjoyable to eat his research at the newly-revamped Nouri.