Farm-to-table wagyu

WHERE does your wagyu come from?

It's a question diners often ask restaurants, but if the most they can tell you is the prefecture and nothing about the farmer or the rearing process, chances are it comes from a generic supplier with no knowledge of its provenance.

"The general supply chain involves multiple stakeholders such as brokers, packers, consolidators, exporters, re-exporters and so on," says Shuo Koh, director and founder of Responsible Food, an importer of artisanal and sustainable meat and seafood.